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Routes in 5. Devonshire

Cream on My Scone TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Devonshire Pillar T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Devonshire Ridge TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Puzzle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Side TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hung Like Benedict TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Major John Andre TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: TR Jon Crefeld & Steve Knowlton 2008
Page Views: 99 total · 4/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 24, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Very interesting rock in the lower section, then a balancy reachy interesting traverse sequence (if following the Lead FA way). Or finish with thin tricky face climbing if finishing straight up (on Top-Rope).

Up the crack, then step right across two-foot-wide nose (or climb a bit higher on left side of nose before traversing), next up a little, then traverse farther right almost to above the overhang in the right arete. Then up (perhaps with a left-ward trend) to the top.

Variation: direct Top-Rope finish (5.10a): Stay on the left side of the nose, then straight to the top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Obvious vertical crack with right-facing flake sections in the right (east) half of main Devonshire face. See Routes photo.

Protection

Top-Rope: Set up top anchor well below the cliff top with a long static line.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.

Protection for trad leading is uncertain.

Photos

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