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Routes in 5. Devonshire

Cream on My Scone TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Devonshire Pillar T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Devonshire Ridge TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Puzzle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Side TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hung Like Benedict TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Major John Andre TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 20 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts + Karel Hrbacek 2015
Page Views: 65 total, 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 24, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Interesting sequence. If only it were longer.

Start on a sloping ledge about fifteen feet higher than the bottom of the main south face of the Devonshire slab. Or could use the same start as the route to the left, but go farther right along the right edge of the slab.

Up through the broken cracks to the top.

Variation easier+interesting: About halfway up, make a wide step right.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Obvious broken crack system on the right (northeast) wall of the Devonshire slab. Can start on a sloping ledge about twenty feet higher than the bottom of the main south face of the Devonshire slab. See Routes photo.

Protection

Top-Rope: Set up top anchor well below the cliff top with a long static line.
This anchor can be shared with the next route to the left, and perhaps (with a directional) shared with the Devonshire Pillar route.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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