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Routes in 5. Devonshire

Cream on My Scone TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Devonshire Pillar T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Devonshire Ridge TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Puzzle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Side TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hung Like Benedict TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Major John Andre TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: Steve Knowlton 2008 (harder variation)
Page Views: 66 total, 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 24, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Thoughtful interesting moves -- too bad it's not longer.

Up the arete which forms the left edge of the obvious gully. Use holds in the center of the gully as needed, but generally it's more fun to climb on the left side.
. (Variation "Corner of Terror" 5.7: start by climbing up the center of the gully -- less fun unless you like that sort of thing).

Next use the gully to get up to the obvious 10-inch diameter tree. Finish by stepping wide Right across to above the overhanging bulge.
. (Variation easier, "Corner of Terror": finish up the gully to the top).

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Left edge of the obvious gully on the left edge of the Devonshire slab (and on the right edge of the Shadow Castle face). See Routes photo.

Protection

Top-Rope: Best to set up the top anchor (using static line from a tree above) so the rope comes down over the overhanging bulge to the R of the gully -- not down the top section of the gully.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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