Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||TR, 40 ft|
|FA:||TR Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts 2015|
|Page Views:||128 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Dec 24, 2015|
DescriptionGreat crux in a great situation. Have your photographer ready at the best angle.
Start up the right edge of the slab, without using the smaller crack about two feet right of the obvious flake/crack of the Devonshire Pillar route. Up the arete to a roof just above crack. Through the roof, then up to the top.
Variation: easier + interesting: Before the roof, go Left and up the right side of a nose to above the level of the roof (join the Devonshire Pillar route). Then a wide balancy step right, and up to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
LocationRight edge of the main face of the Devonshire slab. See Routes photo.
ProtectionTop-Rope: Set up top anchor well below the cliff top with a long static line.
This anchor can be shared with the next route to the right, and perhaps (with a directional) shared with the Devonshire Pillar route.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.
Protection for trad leading is unknown.