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Routes in 5. Devonshire

Cream on My Scone TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Devonshire Pillar T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Devonshire Ridge TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Puzzle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High Side TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hung Like Benedict TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Major John Andre TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: TR Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 128 total · 5/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 24, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Great crux in a great situation. Have your photographer ready at the best angle.

Start up the right edge of the slab, without using the smaller crack about two feet right of the obvious flake/crack of the Devonshire Pillar route. Up the arete to a roof just above crack. Through the roof, then up to the top.

Variation: easier + interesting: Before the roof, go Left and up the right side of a nose to above the level of the roof (join the Devonshire Pillar route). Then a wide balancy step right, and up to the top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Right edge of the main face of the Devonshire slab. See Routes photo.

Protection

Top-Rope: Set up top anchor well below the cliff top with a long static line.
This anchor can be shared with the next route to the right, and perhaps (with a directional) shared with the Devonshire Pillar route.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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