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The Beard Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 5. The Beard

L › R R › L A › Z

	Breakneck TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Col de Lui d'Aï TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Directe de la Momie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Extrême Bec TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fiddlers Elbow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Inner Cheek TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Iron Bridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Louse, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Masada Lite TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nose Hair TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rough Skin TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Stubbl TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Tick, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	543 ft	166 m
GPS:	41.146, -74.16353 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,078 total · 74/month
Shared By:	kenr on Dec 19, 2015
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, SMarsh Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

An interesting double boulder.

The print guidebook 2011 edition by Jon Crefeld lists six to eight boulder problems in the area (some of which could presumably be top-roped) ...

The Tick
The Nose
(project)
Splitter
Singapore Caning
Flavor Savor

... nearby ...

V-Oh Shit
Deus Corner

Top-Rope: Can reach the nice platform at the top of the Left boulder by scrambing up around its left side (less steep and with deeper footholds than right side). Can reach the top of the Right boulder by scrambling down from that platform.
Note that at least three routes on the Left boulder require Trad protection gear (cams + stoppers) to set up top anchor.

Getting There

It's way out in the low east, beyond the Puzzle Palace and Giving Tree sectors. About 150 ft / 35 meters Right (SE) from the Giving Tree sector and 180 feet / 55 meters Left (NW) from the Jersey Volunteers sector. So it's easy to reach.

From the main Powerlinez trailhead on Torne Brook Rd (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.14227 W74.16227), walk the main gentle dirt road 0.25 mile / 400 meters (past the turnoff for Tower Wall and Basilisk) farther North toward the electric power substation to a junction at (N41.1462 W74.1619). At this junction turn sharp Left and walk SouthWest gentle up another dirt road about 160 ft / 50 meters. Here turn Right off the road and bushwhack uphill NorthWest about 160 feet / 50 meters to the base of the Jersey Volunteers slab. Then turn Left and walk 180 feet / 55 meters horizontally parallel to the base of the cliffs to reach the unmistakable double boulder.

. (It could also be reached by traversing NorthEast along the base of the cliffs from Puzzle Palace, but this requires crawling under or around a large fallen tree).