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Routes in 5. The Beard

Breakneck TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Col de Lui d'Aï TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Directe de la Momie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Extrême Bec TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiddlers Elbow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Cheek TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Bridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Louse, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Masada Lite TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose Hair TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Skin TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stubbl TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tick, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elevation: 543 ft
GPS: 41.146, -74.164 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 941 total, 39/month
Shared By: kenr on Dec 19, 2015
Admins: SMarsh

Description

An interesting double boulder.

The print guidebook 2011 edition by Jon Crefeld lists six to eight boulder problems in the area (some of which could presumably be top-roped) ...
  • The Tick
  • The Nose
  • (project)
  • Splitter
  • Singapore Caning
  • Flavor Savor
... nearby ...
  • V-Oh Shit
  • Deus Corner

Top-Rope: Can reach the nice platform at the top of the Left boulder by scrambing up around its left side (less steep and with deeper footholds than right side). Can reach the top of the Right boulder by scrambling down from that platform.
Note that at least three routes on the Left boulder require Trad protection gear (cams + stoppers) to set up top anchor.

Getting There

It's way out in the low east, beyond the Puzzle Palace and Giving Tree sectors. About 150 ft / 35 meters Right (SE) from the Giving Tree sector and 180 feet / 55 meters Left (NW) from the Jersey Volunteers sector. So it's easy to reach.

From the main Powerlinez trailhead on Torne Brook Rd (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.14227 W74.16227), walk the main gentle dirt road 0.25 mile / 400 meters (past the turnoff for Tower Wall and Basilisk) farther North toward the electric power substation to a junction at (N41.1462 W74.1619). At this junction turn sharp Left and walk SouthWest gentle up another dirt road about 160 ft / 50 meters. Here turn Right off the road and bushwhack uphill NorthWest about 160 feet / 50 meters to the base of the Jersey Volunteers slab. Then turn Left and walk 180 feet / 55 meters horizontally parallel to the base of the cliffs to reach the unmistakable double boulder.

. (It could also be reached by traversing NorthEast along the base of the cliffs from Puzzle Palace, but this requires crawling under or around a large fallen tree).

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