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Routes in 5. The Beard

Breakneck TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Col de Lui d'Aï TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Directe de la Momie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Extrême Bec TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiddlers Elbow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Cheek TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Bridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Louse, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Masada Lite TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose Hair TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Skin TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stubbl TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tick, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 49 total, 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 18, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Some thoughtful moves. Too bad it requires Trad gear to set up top-rope.

Start on rocks at right side of big corner. Get onto the slab at bottom of SouthEast face, gentle up its right side, and traverse into bottom of vague corner at right edge of SouthEast face. Go straight up without using only holds which are Left of the vertical line of the 4-inch right-facing corner in the ENE face. Then could trend left a bit to finish.

Variation: After the crux, could step back Left over onto the SouthEast face and do the finish of the Masada Lite route.

warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

On the Left boulder, at the big corner below the obvious arete between the SouthWest and SouthEast faces.

- - > see on this route photo

Protection

Top-Rope? Setting up top anchor requires Trad protection gear, perhaps medium-size cams (also perhaps medium-large stopper might help).

To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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