Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in 5. The Beard
|Breakneck TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Col de Lui d'Aï TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Directe de la Momie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Extrême Bec TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fiddlers Elbow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Inner Cheek TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Iron Bridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Louse, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Masada Lite TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nose Hair TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Rough Skin TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stubbl TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Tick, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Type:||TR, 25 ft|
|FA:||TR Ken Roberts|
|Page Views:||49 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Jun 18, 2016|
DescriptionSome thoughtful moves. Too bad it requires Trad gear to set up top-rope.
Start on rocks at right side of big corner. Get onto the slab at bottom of SouthEast face, gentle up its right side, and traverse into bottom of vague corner at right edge of SouthEast face. Go straight up without using only holds which are Left of the vertical line of the 4-inch right-facing corner in the ENE face. Then could trend left a bit to finish.
Variation: After the crux, could step back Left over onto the SouthEast face and do the finish of the Masada Lite route.
warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
LocationOn the Left boulder, at the big corner below the obvious arete between the SouthWest and SouthEast faces.
- - > see on this route photo
ProtectionTop-Rope? Setting up top anchor requires Trad protection gear, perhaps medium-size cams (also perhaps medium-large stopper might help).
To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.