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Routes in 5. The Beard

Breakneck TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Col de Lui d'Aï TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Directe de la Momie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Extrême Bec TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiddlers Elbow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Cheek TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Bridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Louse, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Masada Lite TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose Hair TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Skin TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stubbl TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tick, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 49 total, 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 18, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Interesting moves on the arete, but it's not clear how to keep it interesting after that.
. (So likely only worth doing if doing other routes on the Right boulder and can quickly figure out how to set up top-rope without danger of sideways swing).

Up the vertical arete, then gentler slab above.

warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.

. . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

. . (The print guidebook 2011 edition by Jon Crefeld has a boulder problem called "Splitter" somewhere around here, but not sure exactly what it is).

. . . ? name of this route ? . . .

Location

On the Right one of the two Beard boulders, at the arete by the bottom of the gully which is between the NorthWest face and its (overhanging) South face.

- - > see on this route photo

Protection

To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page

warning: It's tricky to set up top-rope in a way that avoids dangerous sideways swing if the climber falls.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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