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Routes in 5. The Beard

Breakneck TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Col de Lui d'Aï TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Directe de la Momie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Extrême Bec TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fiddlers Elbow TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Inner Cheek TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iron Bridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Louse, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Masada Lite TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose Hair TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Skin TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stubbl TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tick, The TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 58 total, 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 18, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Link-up of interesting moves. Too bad it requires Trad gear to set up top-rope.

The obvious direct line up the crack in the center of the SouthEast face was listed in the 2011 print guidebook as a project ("Masada"), but no claim that it's been sent yet - (then we could remove the "Lite" from the route name).

Climb up out from the big corner (more difficult but less fun if do not use any hold on L side of arete). Next up the right side of arete. Then (optionally using one hold on left side of arete) step Right to obvious crack in center of SouthEast face. Finish Straight to the top.

warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

On the Left boulder, at the big corner below the obvious arete between the South face and the SouthEast face.

- - > see on this route photo

Protection

Top-Rope? Difficult to set up top anchor in a way that avoids a dangerous sideways swing if the climber falls. Most likely requires Trad protection gear, perhaps medium-size cams (also perhaps medium-large stopper might help).

To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

Nice name Ken! Nov 21, 2016