High Bluffs Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Evan Wisheropp on Oct 5, 2015|
|Admins:||Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
WARNING: This is not a beginner crag.
Despite the easier grades, this place can be really wild. Go with experienced climbers and climb cautiously and attentively. Rescue here is a pain in the ass; know what you're doing before you go.
High Bluffs is a fantastic little crag near Lost Rocks. The routes became lost in time because the original bolts were overly rusted and poorly positioned, it has since gone through a full rebolting. The rock is very unique, with significant incut holds and cool pockets that make climbing very unique and enjoyable. Routes range from 5.8-5.11, the majority being 5.8. Most of the routes start on large boulders above the beach, and are safe from even very large waves (careful in winter). The position provides quite a thrill. The waves, the rock, the views, and the cultural significance all make this place an amazing, powerful, and often magical place to climb.
The new bolts are 14mmx110mm titanium glue-ins. The rebolting is emphasizing good protection and safe climbing (solid bolts in the most solid rock, good clipping stances, and clean falls).
Of important consideration here, as well as climbing anywhere from Moonstone to Footsteps, is that these rocks all have cultural importance to the Yurok Tribe. It is important that we respect the rocks and the surrounding land. Climbers tend to respect nature, so let's continue to show it. Clean up after yourselves have low impact. I was once asked by a representative of the Yurok to ask climbers to say a prayer before climbing as a sign of respect towards the cultural significance of all of these rocks in HumCo/DelNorte. I am all for the cultural reminder and suggest others take the time to do the same.
Take the Klamath Beach Road exit off of HW 101 and head west. After few minutes turn left following signs for High Bluffs Overlook. Another 3 minutes later, you'll take your first right onto a dirt road (Coastal Drive), and then an immediate left down past an open gate.
From the parking lot, walk down to the vista point, and head down a hidden path on the left just after the wooden fence. The trail opens up after a bit and heads southwest along the ridge. After 150 yards and near the end of the ridge, follow the path left to the two lone spruce trees. The original path has oddly been forgotten in favor of a steep bramble with bad erosion. Hike down to the spruce trees, touch the spruce, THEN head left. Each of the routes start on either one of the three large boulders, or down on the beach during low tide. Access the larger boulder by a short 4th class on the southeast corner. Top acccess: From the two spruce trees, turn right (west) and follow a fixed line across the top of the cliff. Make 2-3 rappels with a 60m rope.
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