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Routes in High Bluffs

101 Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ahab's Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Albert Alexander S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Longbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard Original Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Dweller S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cthulhu's Reawakening TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gardyloo S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Guilty Pleasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Hull TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Land Ho! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magellan's Voyage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magellan's Voyage (old traverse finish) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man Overboard TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Me First Eyepatch S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Man's Land S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rated Arrrgh! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sailor Jerry's S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 168 ft
GPS: 41.509, -124.079 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,704 total, 176/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

High Bluffs is a fantastic little crag near Lost Rocks. The routes became lost in time because the original bolts were overly rusted and poorly positioned, it has since gone through a full rebolting. The rock is very unique, with significant incut holds and cool pockets that make climbing very unique and enjoyable. Routes range from 5.8-5.11, the majority being 5.8. Most of the routes start on large boulders above the beach, and are safe from even very large waves (careful in winter). The position provides quite a thrill.

The new bolts are 14mmx110mm titanium glue-ins. The rebolting is emphasizing good protection and safe climbing (solid bolts in the most solid rock, good clipping stances, and clean falls).

Of important consideration here, as well as climbing anywhere from Moonstone to Footsteps, is that these rocks all have cultural importance to the Yurok Tribe. It is important that we respect the rocks and the surrounding land. Climbers tend to respect nature, so let's continue to show it. Clean up after yourselves have low impact. I was once asked by a representative of the Yurok to ask climbers to say a prayer before climbing as a sign of respect towards the cultural significance of all of these rocks in HumCo/DelNorte. I am all for the cultural reminder and suggest others take the time to do the same.

The waves, the rock, the views, and the cultural significance all make this place an amazing, powerful, and often magical place to climb.

Getting There

Driving Directions:
Take the Klamath Beach Road exit off of HW 101 and head west. After few minutes turn left following signs for High Bluffs Overlook. Another 3 minutes later, you'll take your first right onto a dirt road (Coastal Drive), and then an immediate left down past an open gate.

Hiking Directions:
From the parking lot, walk down to the vista point, and head down a hidden path five feet left of the wooden fence. The trail opens up after a bit and heads southwest along the ridge. After 150 yards and near the end of the ridge, follow the path left to the two lone spruce trees.

CLIFF TOP ACCESS: From these two trees, turn right (west) and follow a fixed line across the top of the cliff. Do one 160' rappel with two ropes or two 80' raps.

LEAD ROUTE ACCESS: From these two trees, turn left (east) and follow a good path to the base of the cliff. At the base of the trail, find a suitable way down to the beach. When the creek isn't flowing, a black fixed line on your right will help you down to the beach. Each of the routes start on either one of the three large boulders, or down on the beach during low tide. Access the larger boulder by a short 4th class on the southeast corner.

Season

High Bluffs is fantastic most times of the year, but like all coastal climbing, be sure to check the swell before heading out. Remember, winter usually comes with BIG swells, and will sometimes make the area unclimbable. The main boulder is 25' above sea level, so keep that in mind when looking at the tide and swell levels.

19 Total Climbs

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The nearest camping is Flint Ridge, just a mile or so up the coastal drive from the High Bluffs gate. I hear it is an excellent excellent campsite, but I think you are supposted to register at the ranger station first. There is a no camping sign at the parking lot, either way, there isn't really anywhere to camp down there anyway. I'm sure sleeping in the car wouldn't count as camping. That's all I can think of in the immediate area. Hopefully that's somewhat helpful. Jun 28, 2016
I wanted to ask if anyone had beta to add for High Bluffs climbing: camping/dirtbag stays? I'm heading out there soon and wanted to get some info on camping near the climb site. Looking at the local RV parks and KOAs, its ridiculously expensive! Thanks a million INA. Jun 28, 2016

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