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Routes in High Bluffs

101 Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ahab's Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Albert Alexander S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Longbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard Original Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Dweller S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cthulhu's Reawakening TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gardyloo S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Guilty Pleasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Hull TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Land Ho! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magellan's Voyage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magellan's Voyage (old traverse finish) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man Overboard TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Me First Eyepatch S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Man's Land S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rated Arrrgh! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sailor Jerry's S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 86 total · 4/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on May 19, 2016
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Why was the pirate nervous about this climb? Because it was Rated Arrrgh!

Rated Arrrgh climbs a crack up through the center of the arch, and meets up with Captain Longbeard near the end. Begin the route by following the first few bolts of No Man's Land. Bring lots of slings. Descend with two raps to the ground with a 60m rope, or climb Gardyloo to walk off.

After cleaning off the loose rock, plenty solid gear placements appeared throughout the climb. It can be made safer by scoping the gear placements on TR first, but regardless, it is quite an adventure where you must be experienced with this rock, best for very experienced trad climbers. Place lots of redundant gear and be safe!

Protection

Draws
MANY 24" slings! (maybe 10)
Three 48" slings.
Micro nuts (offsets very useful)
Nuts
Micro cams (#00-#1 metolius or black to green alien)
Cams .4-2"

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