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Routes in High Bluffs

101 Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ahab's Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Albert Alexander S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Longbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard Original Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Dweller S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cthulhu's Reawakening TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gardyloo S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Guilty Pleasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Hull TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Land Ho! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magellan's Voyage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magellan's Voyage (old traverse finish) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man Overboard TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Me First Eyepatch S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Man's Land S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rated Arrrgh! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sailor Jerry's S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 225 total · 11/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on May 5, 2016
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route was an old unfinished and unlisted project that went halfway up the wall and stopped short at a bail biner. The route has finally been continued and is excellent! The route follows some almost runnout climbing on 5.9-5.10 terrain up to a very technical (but well protected) crux sequence on tiny crimps and a minuscule mono.

P1: 100' Climb "No Man's Land" to the second anchor. (Downclimb to titanium bolts)
P2: 100' Climb past 8 bolts of increasing difficulty up to a well protected 5.11 crux headwall.
P3: 80' Traverse back up and right through 5.9 stemming and over to a 4th class chossy ramp with two bolts.

Descent: Walk off or do two raps down the main wall. 60m rope needed.

Location

Farthest left route. Climb No Man's Land to access.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 optional old bolts + Ram's horns anchor.
There's a bit of a bit of a gap between bolts around the first mini-roof (5.8) due to a small section of non-boltable rock, if nervous, you could clip a old bolt off to the right with a 24" sling. May 19, 2016