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Routes in High Bluffs

101 Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ahab's Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Albert Alexander S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Longbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard Original Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Dweller S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cthulhu's Reawakening TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gardyloo S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Guilty Pleasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Hull TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Land Ho! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magellan's Voyage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magellan's Voyage (old traverse finish) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Man Overboard TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Me First Eyepatch S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Man's Land S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rated Arrrgh! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sailor Jerry's S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 152 total, 6/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin on the first (smallest) boulder and climb past two bolts on a steep wall and pull the roof on the right side of the little prow and then move slightly right. Choose your difficulty in the first two bolts by climbing left or right of the bolts, 5.8-5.11+

The route was recently bolted with titanium. It pulls the same roof as the absurdly runnout "Jerry's" but was given a more exciting start and finish.

Location

farthest right

Protection

Six bolts

Photos

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Fun route, pick your difficulty at the first two bolts. You could climb way right of the bolt line and make it a 5.8 if you really wanted, or climb slightly left to make it harder. Pick your pleasure. The mandatory crux comes with pulling the little roof and heading out right to the arete. Dec 21, 2016
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
Another gem, will be a fun lead when bolted, worth a lap after me first eyepatch. Feb 2, 2016