Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Unknown. Rebolted by Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 315 total · 8/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begin on the second bolder and climb a steep, thin face with small pockets. The crux at the third bolt is very technical and the moves are inconspicuous. Be sure to find the hidden clipping stance!

Beta:
Contrary to looks, it is easiest to follow the bolt line directly (you'll see what I mean if you get stuck in the pod on the left). Clip the third bolt from a solid mono to the right of the bolt line. After the 4th bolt (on the ramp), reach high and clip the fifth bolt over the roof. There is an original bolt below the roof that could be used as a confidence clip to protect the easy but intimidating move to the next clip, if you use it, be sure to back clean it or you'll be stopped short by rope drag.

Protection

6 Bolts

Six titanium glue-ins. Ram's Horns anchor.

Photos

Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
My favorite route here! Careful at the 3rd clip Feb 2, 2016
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.9
I put a black loop of webbing to extend the third bolt lower for shorter folks, or those who don't find the stance. It's clear it would have been quite a sketchy lead on the old bolts! Sep 4, 2017