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Routes in High Bluffs

101 Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ahab's Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Albert Alexander S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Longbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Weirdbeard Original Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cave Dweller S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cthulhu's Reawakening TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gardyloo S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Guilty Pleasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hole in the Hull TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Land Ho! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magellan's Voyage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Magellan's Voyage (old traverse finish) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man Overboard TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Me First Eyepatch S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Man's Land S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rated Arrrgh! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sailor Jerry's S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Unknown. Rebolted by Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 249 total, 10/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Oct 5, 2015
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin on the second bolder and climb a steep, thin face with small pockets. The crux at the third bolt is very technical and the moves are inconspicuous. Be sure to find the hidden clipping stance!

Beta:
Contrary to looks, it is easiest to follow the bolt line directly (you'll see what I mean if you get stuck in the pod on the left). Clip the third bolt from a solid mono to the right of the bolt line. After the 4th bolt (on the ramp), reach high and clip the fifth bolt over the roof. There is an original bolt below the roof that could be used as a confidence clip to protect the easy but intimidating move to the next clip, if you use it, be sure to back clean it or you'll be stopped short by rope drag.

Protection

6 Bolts

Six titanium glue-ins. Ram's Horns anchor.

Photos

I put a black loop of webbing to extend the third bolt lower for shorter folks, or those who don't find the stance. It's clear it would have been quite a sketchy lead on the old bolts! Sep 4, 2017
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
 
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
 
My favorite route here! Careful at the 3rd clip Feb 2, 2016