Lion Rock Rock Climbing

Say cheese for the tourists! This crag is in full view of the big Costa coffe in Cheddar village, and the starting point of the tour bus: chances are you're being watched.

On the approach to the gorge from Cheddar village, this is the first crag you will see, up on your left, seeming to lean in to the road. If you look at the right angle, in the right light, you may be able to make out the 'Lion', in profile, looking to the right.

The crag may be small, but it packs a punch, and some of the gorge's finest single-pitch sport routes can be found here. The rock is typical Cheddar limestone, compact and generally very good but not completely devoid of loose bits. It is however, atypically steep and consequently the bolted routes tend to be quite hard. Don't expect much here for the sub-5.12 climber.

Note that the very visible (and audible) position of the crag means you should behave accordingly. You may be frustrated about blowing the redpoint above the crux, but at least try to keep the language civil.