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Routes in Lion Rock

Valley of the Blind S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Elevation: 210 ft
GPS: 51.282, -2.766 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 111 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell
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Description

Say cheese for the tourists! This crag is in full view of the big Costa coffe in Cheddar village, and the starting point of the tour bus: chances are you're being watched.

On the approach to the gorge from Cheddar village, this is the first crag you will see, up on your left, seeming to lean in to the road. If you look at the right angle, in the right light, you may be able to make out the 'Lion', in profile, looking to the right.

The crag may be small, but it packs a punch, and some of the gorge's finest single-pitch sport routes can be found here. The rock is typical Cheddar limestone, compact and generally very good but not completely devoid of loose bits. It is however, atypically steep and consequently the bolted routes tend to be quite hard. Don't expect much here for the sub-5.12 climber.

Note that the very visible (and audible) position of the crag means you should behave accordingly. You may be frustrated about blowing the redpoint above the crux, but at least try to keep the language civil.

Getting There

Approaching from Cheddar village, drive a little way up the gorge until you find somewhere to park. During the day, there is a £5 charge to park in any of the marked bays, on either side of the road. This can be paid to the attendants on patrol, or at the Cheddar Caves and Gorge shop on the way in. There are various pullouts on the left (North side) further up, where parking for free is tolerated and if you come in the evening, don't worry about paying.

Now walk back down the gorge towards the village, passing (or not) Derrick's tea room on the right. Turn immediately right onto a narrow vehicle track and continue for about 200m to a signed footpath and steps leading up and to the right. Follow this to the top of the steps and turn right again (before getting to the wooded area) on a small path contouring round Westwards. This takes you right to the base of the crag. Total time 5-10 minutes from the car, depending on how far up you have to park.

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