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Routes in Lion Rock

Valley of the Blind S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: P Oxley, 1988
Page Views: 31 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Jul 15, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

One of Cheddar's finest steep pump-fests, tackling the soaring arete to the right of the central corner of Simba.

Climb easily to the first bolt, where the fun starts. Move left on underclings and pinches then up good holds to sidepulls on the right. The crux is a big span leftwards off these to another good hold. Now hold it together on easier climbing up to the small roof, where a bouldery sequence gains yet more good holds. The last 2 bolts should be easy, but it has been dropped from up there!

Location

Right of the central corner are 2 bolt lines. Valley of the Blind is the right-most of these; the other presumably being an independent start to Tonight at Noon (in the guidebook they share a start).

Protection

7 bolts (plus an old ring bolt between bolts 2 and 3: now unecessary). 2-bolt lower-off with rings.

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