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Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bodhisattva Arête T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Conception T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lightening Bear TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Samsara Roof T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tatanka T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Tatanka Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Thunder Bunny S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Wounded Eagle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Elevation:	606 ft
GPS:	33.253, -117.123 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,443 total · 59/month
Shared By:	Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014
Admins:	Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land. Details

Due to its location Old Castle Crag is around private lots of land primarily old avocado groves. As of now current land managers have no issues with access to this Crag. Respect land owners keep a low profile and most importantly clean up any trash, you pack out what you pack in. Thanks and Enjoy.

Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
ACSD Access and Nesting Advisories alliedclimbers.org/access-i…
Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually due to nesting raptors
Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring. Check CNF website: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August.
Corte Madera Mountain Area. Closed Now until July 31st. For more details visit fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Eagle Peak area closed now until July 31st. For more details visit: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Check the Cleveland National Forest websites for details.

Description

The Main Wall a.k.a. The Gorilla Head Buttress, is the main attraction at Old Castle Crag. It is exactly 100 feet tall, and hosts a multitude of some of the more difficult routes to be found in north county.

Getting There

Follow climbers trail. Trail will take you directly to Main Wall. Best way to approach all Routes is via the central ledge which has a fixed line going across due to its off the deck nature.