Elevation: 606 ft
GPS: 33.253, -117.123 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,980 total · 531/month
Shared By: Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land. Details

Description

Old Castle Crag is one of the finer and lesser-known climbing areas in north county San Diego. Rock type is bomber orange San Diego granite, some similar attributes as Mission trails but probably more similar quality to El Cajon Mountain. Primarily a traditional climbing area with loads of splitter lines. Some recent sport development has been done. Cliff is south facing with little shade and gets a lot of sun year around. Definitely gets warm during summer months but cools off nice in late afternoon.

Getting There

From the I-15, exit Gopher Canyon/Oldcastle Road. Follow Old castle Road approximately 1 mile east, until road starts to wind uphill. Cliff will be located on the hillside to your left, north side of Old Castle Rd. Before the road starts to go uphill you will see a call box located on the left side of the street, north side of Old castle Road. It is possible to park at this turnout or anywhere along the side of the road in this vicinity. From call box turnout walk east 100 yards to largish Oak tree growing off north side of road. From here follow unmarked trail 200 yards uphill to a large dirt lot/pad. Shoot for large Bouling pin Boulder and head right/east to find dirt pad. From here a decent established trail switchbacks up the main weakness taking you to the right of the cliff, follow Karnes, do not trundled down ravines.
Somewhere in this vicinity lies the legendary and infamous Steve McQueen Boulder!!!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Castle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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