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Routes in Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress)

Bodhisattva ArĂȘte T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Conception T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightening Bear TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Samsara Roof T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tatanka T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tatanka Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thunder Bunny S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wounded Eagle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Adam Stackhouse and Friends.
Page Views: 612 total · 12/month
Shared By: Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land. Details
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description [Edit]

On my solo ascent of this superb line is when I received a phone call from my wife mid route, that we were having a child. Having done the climb hundreds of times over the course of 10 years and never having named it, this name stuck. CONCEPTION! One of the most classic lines at Old Castle crag, if not one of the most classic in San Diego. Conception climbs the striking double finger crack straight up the center head wall of the Gorilla Head Buttress. It is as sustained as it looks from the ground. With significant crux being the transition from the starting dihedral into the double finger cracks.

Location [Edit]

Starts right side of the Central Ledge. Climb obvious right facing corner with old bolt to small triangular roof, 25'. Exit roof on the left side to access beautiful splitter double finger crack to top.

Protection [Edit]

One old bolt protects first crux. Gear to 2 inches. Doubles in micro from 0-.5!
Old school bomber chain with pitons. Back up anchor with gear sizes .4-2 inches.



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