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Routes in Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress)

Bodhisattva ArĂȘte T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Conception T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightening Bear TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Samsara Roof T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tatanka T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tatanka Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thunder Bunny S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wounded Eagle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jonathan Reinig, John Reinig, Josh Reinig.
Page Views: 456 total, 10/month
Shared By: Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land. Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

One of the Easier routes at Old Castle. From far right side of Central Ledge, climb up and right 30 feet through grassy, blocky, 5.0 terrain. This will put you directly under the right slabs of the Gorilla Head Buttress. Climb either very large grassy right facing corner, or better yet climb broken cracked feature 15 feet right of corner to large visor roof. Pull the roof on left side in the corner via awkward body slot groove. Now climb directly up vertical yet protectable face 25' to belay station at top of buttress.

Location

Tatanka is found at the extreme far right margin of the main wall obvious low angle slabs capped by roof.

Protection

Many slung constrictions. Gear up to 3 inches. Giant slung Boulder at top of climb for belay anchor.

Photos

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