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Routes in Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress)

Bodhisattva Arête T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Conception T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightening Bear TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Samsara Roof T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tatanka T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tatanka Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thunder Bunny S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wounded Eagle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joshua Reinig, John Reinig, Jonathan Reinig, Chris Norwood.
Page Views: 800 total · 15/month
Shared By: Joshua Reinig on Apr 1, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land. Details
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


One of the best Arêtes around. The Bodhisattva is the most obvious, inspiring, proudest, line that exists at Old Castle. The whole route is pretty sustained and steep, starting out at 5.10 and continually getting more difficult toward the top around 11b.
The crux comes at the last sequence as you crank off the hold Dubbed "The Shark Tooth", to a grim V6 Move to Jugs. Blow it here on lead and you will take the 30 footer of your life, as your last good pro is a solid 15 feet below you. :)


The Bodhisattva Arête is the large blunt arête that makes up the left skyline of the main wall. Start in either bird shit covered chimney, fun 5.7. Even better overhanging bulge just left of bird shit chimney start, 10a, to small triangular stance. Now Dyno sideways 10 feet clearing chimney gap to arête!!! Climb left side of arête to obvious right facing arch. Here it becomes possible to obtain the boulder problem head-wall finish and last place for gear!!!


Gear to 3 inches. Bolted anchor.


Kinda cool you left this as a trad route. Great job! Apr 2, 2014
Thanks! Great climb. The lead is definitely not for the faint of heart. :)
Have definitely struggled with the idea of placing a bolt but don't think it will happen? Apr 2, 2014
How many leads has this thing seen? Feb 15, 2017
I have top roped it over 200 tries and have successfully done it on TR once about three years ago. Around this time I started projecting it on lead for the head point. I ended up project the fall/fall outcome itself about 25+ attempts but was never able to pull it off clean on Lead! To date I do not know that anybody has ever lead the thing without taking the ginormous yard sale at the crux! Feb 16, 2017
Sounds intense! Good on ya! Feb 17, 2017

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