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Main Wall (aka The Gorilla Head Buttress)

California > San Diego County > N San Diego County > Old Castle
Warning Access Issue: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land. DetailsDrop down

Description

The Main Wall a.k.a. The Gorilla Head Buttress, is the main attraction at Old Castle Crag. It is exactly 100 feet tall, and hosts a multitude of some of the more difficult routes to be found in north county.

Getting There

Follow climbers trail. Trail will take you directly to Main Wall. Best way to approach all Routes is via the central ledge which has a fixed line going across due to its off the deck nature.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
 2
Bodhisattva ArĂȘte
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Samsara Roof
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Conception
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Thunder Bunny
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Lightening Bear
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 1
Wounded Eagle
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Tatanka
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 1
Tatanka Direct
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bodhisattva ArĂȘte
 2
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R Trad
Samsara Roof
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Conception
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Thunder Bunny
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Lightening Bear
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Wounded Eagle
 1
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Tatanka
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Tatanka Direct
 1
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Main Wall Rope Swing!!!
[Hide Photo] Main Wall Rope Swing!!!
Main wall. Ropes hanging off of Conception 5.11, and ThunderBunny 5.11. Jace sitting on the belay ledge 80' below the anchors.
[Hide Photo] Main wall. Ropes hanging off of Conception 5.11, and ThunderBunny 5.11. Jace sitting on the belay ledge 80' below the anchors.
Main wall from half way up the trail.
[Hide Photo] Main wall from half way up the trail.
Looking to the East from the Central Cave!
[Hide Photo] Looking to the East from the Central Cave!
Main Wall as seen from Base.
[Hide Photo] Main Wall as seen from Base.