Hailstone Rock Climbing
Routes in Hailstone Rock
|Close Encounters (of the bird kind) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Coronor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Doc's Holiday T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Doppelganger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Extra Terrestrial Intelligence S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hail Fire S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Hailstone Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hailstone Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rocket Ride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|GPS:||38.653, -122.614 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Eric Berghorn on Feb 8, 2014|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThose who brave the approach will be rewarded with seclusion, long routes, and amazing views. This area has fewer visitors than Bubble, Bear, and Far Side areas. This is starting to change thanks to Jim Thornburg's recent edition of "Bay Area Rock". Hailstone Rock has a long history of ascents dating back to obscurity. Ken Stanton and others were active here in the 1980's establishing 1st ascents of a few gear protected routes. The most classic of these is Hailstone Crack (5.9, 75 feet) Mark Howe revisited this area in the mid 1990's, exploring, cleaning and top-roping many lines, including Hailstone Arete (5.9, 80 feet). The recently bolted climbs are highly featured, yet this remains a fragile area. Please tread lightly and avoid increased erosion around routes, trails and belay ledges.
Expect to encounter some "average" quality rock, loose holds, flexing holds, etc. Much time was taken to prepare these routes and make them safer. No amount of cleaning will improve rock quality or remove 100% of those hazards. Wear a helmet. Be prepared for adventurous climbing on less than perfect stone. This is not Tuolumne Meadows granite. Hailstone Rock is a resistant plug of weathered Rhyolite protruding from a huge loose talus field. Proceed with Caution !
Getting ThereThe easiest approach for Hailstone Rock is to first hike directly to Bubble Rock via the Fire Road. Climb around and up the left side to gain the summit area of The Bubble. From the summit of Bubble access the approach trail which weaves up and behind the Bubble for 3/4 mile of steep switchbacks. As the trail approaches "The Fin" and the base of routes there, veer off above and left, following the continuing trail directly towards Hailstone and "Hole in the Wall" rock (250 yds.) A steep rocky section of trail is traversed w/ the assistance of a fixed climbing rope (4th class, not dog friendly) This approach trail has been described by some as the "crux" (just getting to the base of the climbing.) A 1+ hour approach from the parking turnout is a far better option than bushwhacking up the brushy, loose rock gullies (out towards the far side) described in some of the MP maps posted on the main MSH page.
The easiest approach to the summit plateau of Hailstone is via the 5th class North arete, which requires 5th class climbing to gain the flat plateau area. At the highest access point, up against the mountain side. The short but exposed arête can be protected with a rope belay and a few medium sized cams. Once on top there is a flat plateau from which several top anchors (chains) can be accessed. Most of the routes are on the western facing side of Hailstone Rock (opposite the approach trail) and described from Left to Right.
Classic Climbing Routes at Hailstone Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season