Access Issue: Mt. St. Helena Crags - Fire Damage from Fall 2017 Details

Description

These secluded rocks lie in the jumble of towers above the road as you hike from The Bubble to the Bear Cliff. Expect fun sport climbs with an adventurous approach, ie: steep and loose terrain with some brush and a touch of poison oak thrown in. There are a number of old volunteer trails established a long time ago. The rock is volcanic of course, but different than other areas of St. Helena. The sport routes tend to be short but well bolted. The Fin is steep while other areas are vertical or just less than vertical. These areas are great diversions for bored locals who have done the other routes waaaay too many times. If this is your first time to St. Helena, spend your time at one of the other fine crags.

Getting There

There is a vague loop trail that starts from the approach trail to Crystal Pockets and ends on top of Bubble Rock. So, from the Bear Cliff, ascend the 4th class gully at the far, far left and head toward Crystal Pockets. Watch for an un-obvious trail cutting left just above a 3rd class tree climbing section. The first route you come to, on a clean yellow bolted slab, is called Milky Way, .10a. Wednesday Wall is just around the corner. Beyond that is Thagamizer Cliff (not topo'd) where there are some interesting crack climbs. Ben Gunn area is below Thagamizer. To get to the Fin, hike up around Thagamizer Cliff. From the saddle above it you can see the back side of the Fin straight across from you. Descend from the Fin to Bubble Rock and aim right to the base. Are you lost? I mentioned this is an adventure, right?

If you start above The Bubble, ascend the steep brushy trail pretty much straight up the hill to The Fin, where you will be rewarded with two fun 5.11s. Continue to the other areas or retreat.

24 Total Climbs

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