The Blade Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.26, -77.393 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013|
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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
This area is pretty shady and doesn't draw the crowds that the Upper Mountain crags (Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth) get. Most of the climbers at Devil's Kitchen will be top roping, with The Blade being no exception. The one lead climb is Gunboat Diplomacy, a well-protected 5.4.
The Blade is located in Devil's Kitchen, the first crag you come across at Sugarloaf Mountain. Most climbers take the road all the up to the top and park in the West View parking lot to climb the Upper Mountain crags at Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth. On the way up you'll pass the East View parking lot on your left and then take a 90 degree left hand turn. Once you make the turn, the Devil's Kitchen is a 600 foot crag on your right. About 50 feet after the left hand turn there's a small picnic area with parking alongside the road. Park here and walk past the picnic area up to the crag. The Blade is located about 50 feet past the classic crack Slow & Easy. Look for a dihedral shaped like an open book with an obvious arete as the right side of the book. Car to crag is about three minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Blade
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Prime Climbing Season