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006 - The Blade

Maryland > Sugarloaf Mountain > Devil's Kitchen
Warning Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. DetailsDrop down

Description

This area is pretty shady and doesn't draw the crowds that the Upper Mountain crags (Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth) get. Most of the climbers at Devil's Kitchen will be top roping, with The Blade being no exception. The one lead climb is Gunboat Diplomacy, a well-protected 5.4.

Getting There

The Blade is located in Devil's Kitchen, the first crag you come across at Sugarloaf Mountain. Most climbers take the road all the up to the top and park in the West View parking lot to climb the Upper Mountain crags at Boy Scout Ledges and Middle Earth. On the way up you'll pass the East View parking lot on your left and then take a 90 degree left hand turn. Once you make the turn, the Devil's Kitchen is a 600 foot crag on your right. About 50 feet after the left hand turn there's a small picnic area with parking alongside the road. Park here and walk past the picnic area up to the crag. The Blade is located about 50 feet past the classic crack Slow & Easy. Look for a dihedral shaped like an open book with an obvious arete as the right side of the book. Car to crag is about three minutes.

Routes from Left to Right

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Routes shown: Gunboat Diplomacy (5.4, green), To Fin or Not to Fin (5.10+ PG13, yellow), The Blade Right (5.10a PG13, blue), Kiss the Blade (5.9-, red)
[Hide Photo] Routes shown: Gunboat Diplomacy (5.4, green), To Fin or Not to Fin (5.10+ PG13, yellow), The Blade Right (5.10a PG13, blue), Kiss the Blade (5.9-, red)
The Blade, note how it looks like an open book.  Gunboat Diplomacy runs up the center, left of the arete on the right.
[Hide Photo] The Blade, note how it looks like an open book. Gunboat Diplomacy runs up the center, left of the arete on the right.