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To Fin or Not to Fin
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 3
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Routes in The Blade
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Blade Right, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Gunboat Diplomacy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Kiss the Blade T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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To Fin or Not to Fin T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 753 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Jack DaSilva on Oct 18, 2019 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall.
Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
Description
Work through the low overhung hand jam that narrows to fingers above the overhang. The arete to the right offers a few pinch holds. At the top of the finger crack is a clutch 3 finger pocket that is invisible from below. Move to a jug above and work right around the priminent arete. Work the arete to the top. (Beware, gear is sparse and tricky for the middle 20 ft).
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