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Routes in The Blade

Gunboat Diplomacy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 735 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013 with updates
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Description

Gunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall. It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall. The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in. The trick is moving left onto the face at the end.

The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so.

Location

Once you finish the climb, build an anchor at the top and belay your partner up. Then walk off.

Protection

The route is well protected with a standard trad rack. Like all climbs at Sugarloaf, there's no bolts.

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