Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,034 total · 15/month
Shared By: Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013 with improvements by IanPerry
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details


Gunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall. It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall. The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in. The trick is moving left onto the face at the end.

The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so.


Once you finish the climb, build an anchor at the top and belay your partner up. Then walk off.


The route is well protected with a standard trad rack. Like all climbs at Sugarloaf, there's no bolts.