Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Routes in The Blade
|Gunboat Diplomacy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||681 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013|
Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details
Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.
DescriptionGunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall. It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall. The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in. The trick is moving left onto the face at the end.
The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so.