Main Wall Climbing

The biggest cliff in Avon, home to some of the best climbs and most intimidating lines in the area. Don't miss the classic "Malbogies" (HVS 5a) or the strangely appealing, wandering line of "Krapp's Last Tape" (E3 5b).

As with most of the gorge there is a strong trad ethic, but quite a lot of fixed gear, especially on the harder lines. The climbing is delicate, intricate, technically sustained but rarely strenuous. Gear is mostly there, though sometimes tricky to arrange. Be prepared to take your time over the climbs here!

Historically this was a vibrant area with fast development and healthy competition for first ascents of the big lines. Perhaps unfortunately it is no longer quite so popular, as the majority seek easier climbing elsewhere in the gorge. On the other hand, you can often find yourself the only party on the wall on a sunny summer's evening.

The cliff faces South West so in the height of summer it is best climbed in the morning, before the sun comes round (sweat and polish are not a good combination!). In the winter, it is very pleasant to climb here on a sunny afternoon.