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Routes in Little Baldy

Air Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bit By Bit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Bald Heads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Raising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hairbrain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merkin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Size White Boys T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prodenominator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Skinhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tapestry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to Little Baldy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 8,050 ft
GPS: 36.614, -118.805 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,930 total, 119/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Feb 24, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Little Baldy is a granite dome that rises to just over 8,000 feet in Sequoia National Park. Anyone who visits it's summit will enjoy a commanding view of the Great Western Divide to the east and a layer of haze to the west. The easiest way to get the view is the one and a half mile trail from Little Baldy saddle.

If you're looking for a more interesting way to the top you can enjoy some high quality granite slab and crack routes. Most climbs range from one to four pitches, the easiest is a 5.6 ramp and the more difficult routes are in the 5.11s.

Spring, Summer and Fall are the best times to climb, but some of the slab routes dry up quickly and can be climbed during sunny weeks in the winter. The routes generally dry off from right to left on the face, so the Regular Route stays wet well into spring and the slab routes on the far right can be climbed almost year round.

Don't forget your helmet, some folks can't resist throwing rocks off the top!

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Getting There

Little Baldy lies just off of the General's Highway about 6 miles north of Lodgepole if you come up the 198 through Three Rivers. Coming from the north on the 180 it's a couple miles south of Dorst Creek campground.

The best approach is from a large turnout just south of the Little Baldy trailhead where you can see the rock up the hill. Pick the route of least resistance up to the base.

For a view of the rock to help get oriented, walk up the hill across the road from the Little Baldy trailhead for a couple minutes.

For routes that reach the summit, descend along the west face back to the base.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Baldy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Little Baldy
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Welcome to Little Baldy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
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Chad Namolik
Three Rivers, CA
Chad Namolik   Three Rivers, CA
As for the 5.7 - 5.9 bolted slab climbs on the far right side (Bit by Bit to Sparkler), I find these climbs to be kinda hard. More ideal for those very comfortable at 5.8/9 slab. Kinda run-out on some of these climbs, plus older, original FA bolts - smc hangers, some 1/4"ers; pretty full value stuff. Take a 2nd rope to get off some of these and small/med gear will place in the the little cracks & flakes. May need to leave some rap gear too. Some new rap ring anchors and new lead protection bolts would make this place great. Mar 19, 2016
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Eric, I've got a rough draft on SEKIclimbing.com, please take a look and let me know if there is anything I should change! Apr 9, 2015
I can fill in some blanks if someone is working on a guidebook. Apr 9, 2015

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