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Routes in Little Baldy

Air Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bit By Bit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Bald Heads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Raising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hairbrain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merkin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Size White Boys T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prodenominator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Skinhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tapestry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to Little Baldy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rich Smith and Herb Laeger, September 1983
Page Views: 2,339 total · 35/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Apr 20, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

An excellent route ascending a natural line up the tallest and steepest part of the face. The climb requires a variety of techniques including liebacking, friction and several sizes of cracks.

One of the few all trad routes on Little Baldy. The only bolts are the anchor at the top of the first pitch. It's a very good route that will only get better with time and little more traffic. It may be 5.9 if the crux corner gets a little more clean.

Please climb this route!

P1: Ascend the left leaning corner/crack system until you see two anchor bolts off to the left.

P2: Continue up the same system, through the crux corner, until a small roof. Skirt around the small roof to the right and walk up and left to belay at the base of the arching crack (5.10a).

P3: Follow the fun, clean arching crack up. As it turns left it gets wider but can be climbed without many off-width moves (Unless you didn't bring big gear and have to try to place gear in the back of the crack as you squirm up and get your knee stuck!). Belay where the arching crack ends.

P4: Climb up the small left facing dihedral through the big ear/flake thing. A big piece comes in handy here. Friction off the belay is the hardest part of this pitch. Belay once you get to 4th class at a large right facing roof/corner.

Walk to the top and high five!

Location

The start is left of a giant dirty looking left facing corner near where you hit the rock on the approach from the road (see photos)

Protection

Doubles from small to 2" with one #3, two big pieces and a set of nuts. Two #5s would probably be best, but a #4 and #5 or #5 and #6 would work.

Photos

limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
 
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
 
I gave this four stars for it's potential after a bit of traffic Apr 21, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
3.5 stars only because of the little traffic this gets and the amount of moss on it. It would easily be 4 star classic if all those bushes and moss weren't in the way.

Partner and I did this is 3 pitches. I lead pitch one, he did 2 and then link 3/4 together with a 70m rope.

I did a variation when I followed pitch 2 into the giant ledge above. At the small roof, he followed the description and went out right through some slab climbing. I followed and went left because his piece after the slab fell out and I didnt want to take a giant swing if I fell. Going out left was a pretty cool varation and climbs over a small roof on jugs. Maybe a v1/v2 boulder move that can be easily protected if done on lead. Great climb over all. We had a #4 and #5 C4 and a tricam equal to #6 c4. He placed each one but couldve placed smaller stuff further back in the crack. May 30, 2013
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
The last two pitches are pretty dang classic and the first two are definitely good at times. I thought the beginning of the 2nd and beginning of the 4th to be pretty heads up. At the end of the 3rd, one should downclimb a short ways to belay. Linking 3 and 4 is good beta except i thought the #5 was nice to have on the 4th. The 2nd pitch might be 5.9 if clean, but the 4th is clean and for sure 5.10. Didn't know limpingcrab was a sandbagger ;)

I'm curious how most people choose to start the first pitch..

1 #4 and 1 #5 seemed perfect.

The giant flake on the 4th is freakin out of this world and not as intimidating as it looks from below. It's like laybacking in space Apr 24, 2015
This was my first climb in the Sequoia's and it was good. I would definitely agree with Brian's comment about the spicy sections on the 2nd and 4th pitch(get some good gear in above the 3rd pitch's anchor before pulling those thin, delicate moves). I too built my belay at a good stance after a little down climbing at the end of the 3rd pitch. Although the flake felt amazing to climb on I was definitely hesitant to pull hard on it. My lady friend told me at the end of the climb that she had visions of it crashing down on her and cutting the rope! Fortunately, the actual climbing on the flake was quite easy in comparison to the start of the pitch. Fun climb with a relatively easy(a little overgrown) approach and a well maintained trail to walk off. Just remember...Nature provides! May 30, 2016

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