Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rich Smith and Herb Laeger, September 1983
Page Views: 2,860 total · 32/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Apr 20, 2013
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

An excellent route ascending a natural line up the tallest and steepest part of the face. The climb requires a variety of techniques including liebacking, friction and several sizes of cracks.

One of the few all trad routes on Little Baldy. The only bolts are the anchor at the top of the first pitch. It's a very good route that will only get better with time and little more traffic. It may be 5.9 if the crux corner gets a little more clean.

Please climb this route!

P1: Ascend the left leaning corner/crack system until you see two anchor bolts off to the left.

P2: Continue up the same system, through the crux corner, until a small roof. Skirt around the small roof to the right and walk up and left to belay at the base of the arching crack (5.10a).

P3: Follow the fun, clean arching crack up. As it turns left it gets wider but can be climbed without many off-width moves (Unless you didn't bring big gear and have to try to place gear in the back of the crack as you squirm up and get your knee stuck!). Belay where the arching crack ends.

P4: Climb up the small left facing dihedral through the big ear/flake thing. A big piece comes in handy here. Friction off the belay is the hardest part of this pitch. Belay once you get to 4th class at a large right facing roof/corner.

Walk to the top and high five!

Location

The start is left of a giant dirty looking left facing corner near where you hit the rock on the approach from the road (see photos)

Protection

Doubles from small to 2" with one #3, two big pieces and a set of nuts. Two #5s would probably be best, but a #4 and #5 or #5 and #6 would work.

Photos