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Little Baldy

California > Sequoia & Kings Canyo…
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Little Baldy is a granite dome that rises to just over 8,000 feet in Sequoia National Park. Anyone who visits it's summit will enjoy a commanding view of the Great Western Divide to the east and a layer of haze to the west. The easiest way to get the view is the one and a half mile trail from Little Baldy saddle.

If you're looking for a more interesting way to the top you can enjoy some high quality granite slab and crack routes. Most climbs range from one to four pitches, the easiest is a 5.6 ramp and the more difficult routes are in the 5.11s.

Spring, Summer and Fall are the best times to climb, but some of the slab routes dry up quickly and can be climbed during sunny weeks in the winter. The routes generally dry off from right to left on the face, so the Regular Route stays wet well into spring and the slab routes on the far right can be climbed almost year round.

Don't forget your helmet, some folks can't resist throwing rocks off the top!

Getting There

Little Baldy lies just off of the General's Highway about 6 miles north of Lodgepole if you come up the 198 through Three Rivers. Coming from the north on the 180 it's a couple miles south of Dorst Creek campground.

The best approach is from a large turnout just south of the Little Baldy trailhead where you can see the rock up the hill. Pick the route of least resistance up to the base.

For a view of the rock to help get oriented, walk up the hill across the road from the Little Baldy trailhead for a couple minutes.

For routes that reach the summit, descend along the west face back to the base.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Regular Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Hair Raising
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
Middle Size White Boys
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Welcome to Little Baldy
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
Skinhead
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
The Merkin
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Hairbrain
Trad 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Bit By Bit
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Crazy Bald Heads
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Tapestry
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Prodenominator
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Sparkler
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 1
Air Heads
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Regular Route
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Hair Raising
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Middle Size White Boys
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Welcome to Little Baldy
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Skinhead
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Merkin
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Hairbrain
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Bit By Bit
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Crazy Bald Heads
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tapestry
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Prodenominator
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sparkler
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Air Heads
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It's that far from the road
[Hide Photo] It's that far from the road
Little Baldy
[Hide Photo] Little Baldy
Slab fun up on Little Baldy
[Hide Photo] Slab fun up on Little Baldy

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] I can fill in some blanks if someone is working on a guidebook. Apr 9, 2015
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
[Hide Comment] Eric, I've got a rough draft on SEKIclimbing.com, please take a look and let me know if there is anything I should change! Apr 9, 2015
Chad N
Central California
[Hide Comment] As for the 5.7 - 5.9 bolted slab climbs on the far right side (Bit by Bit to Sparkler), I find these climbs to be kinda hard. More ideal for those very comfortable at 5.8/9 slab. Kinda run-out on some of these climbs, plus older, original FA bolts - smc hangers, some 1/4"ers; pretty full value stuff. Take a 2nd rope to get off some of these and small/med gear will place in the the little cracks & flakes. May need to leave some rap gear too. Some new rap ring anchors and new lead protection bolts would make this place great. Mar 19, 2016