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Routes in Little Baldy

Air Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bit By Bit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Bald Heads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Raising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hairbrain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merkin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Size White Boys T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prodenominator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Skinhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tapestry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to Little Baldy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Hickey, Joe 06/1984
Page Views: 220 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chad N on Jan 22, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details


Single rack to 3", nuts, emphasis on small/med. 60m rope. Build all anchors. Walk off.


A fun, and varied, adventure route, this is a good multi to do if the regular route was/is a bit too easy for you. The 1P 5.8 crack is well protected. The traverse 5.7 and slab 5.2 to 5.5, are slightly "hairy".

This route is just right of 'the merkin 5.10a', bit left of a giant pine, also under the big roof that's in the middle of LB. Goes up to roof and left to big slab. The first pitch is a nice finger/hand crack over a bulge, and up through a small right facing corner. This crack eats pro. Build anchor under big roof. Traverse left, placing pro every chance. Some may want to break this traverse up into two short pitches or stretch out the rope, place pro on the traverse (long runners) and hit the slab, build belay. When arriving up on the big slab, look for cracks & ledges to build anchors. Two pitches of slightly run out 5.2 - 5.6 slab, options here, or trend left to join the big right facing corner.

Topo, pics, beta


Look for the big roof, visor feature in the middle of LB. Route climbs up under roof and exits left. When walking up climbers approach trail from large pullout, look for the bolted 5.10 slab routes 'LB hoodwink' & 'the merkin'

Just right of 'the merkin' and starts close to a giant pine tree.


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Ryan Watson
Cedar Grove, CA
Ryan Watson   Cedar Grove, CA
The "5.2 - 5.5 slab" is a mega sandbag. Sep 21, 2018

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