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Routes in Little Baldy
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Air Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bit By Bit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crazy Bald Heads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat Bastard T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hair Raising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hairbrain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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HP Lovecraft T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Life on the Edge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Merkin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Middle Size White Boys T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prodenominator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Skinhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sparkler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tapestry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Welcome to Little Baldy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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wigged out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.6141, -118.8049 |
| FA: | Hickey, Joe 06/1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,128 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chad Namolik on Jan 22, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Protection
Single rack 0.2” to 3" + nuts, emphasis on small/med. 60m rope. Build all anchors. Walk off.
Description
A fun and varied adventure route, this is a good multi to do if the ‘Regular Route’ was too easy for you. The 1P 5.8 crack is well protected. The 5.7 traverse and slab (5.4 to 5.6) might turn your brain a little “hairy".
This route is just right of 'The Merkin 5.10a', near a giant pine tree, also under the big roof that's in the middle of LB. Goes up to roof and left to big slab. The first pitch is a nice finger/hand crack over a bulge, and up through a small right facing corner. This crack eats pro. Build anchor (w/ your larger gear) under the big roof. Traverse left, placing pro at every chance. Some may want to break this traverse up into two short pitches or stretch out the rope, place pro on the traverse (long runners) and hit the slab, build belay. When arriving up on the big slab, look for cracks & ledges to build anchors. Two pitches of run out 5.4 - 5.6 slab, options here, or trend left to join the big right facing corner.
Topo, pics, beta sekiclimbing.com
Location
Look for the big roof / visor feature in the middle of LB. Route climbs up under roof and exits left. When walking up climbers approach trail from large pullout, look for the bolted 5.10 slab routes 'LB Hoodwink' & 'The Merkin'
Just right of 'The Merkin' and starts close to a giant pine tree.
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