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Routes in Little Baldy

Air Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bit By Bit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Bald Heads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Raising T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hairbrain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merkin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Size White Boys T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prodenominator S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Skinhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sparkler S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tapestry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to Little Baldy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Tim Slover and Dale Haskamp. August, 1991
Page Views: 816 total, 15/month
Shared By: limpingcrab on Apr 21, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

This climb can be done as one clean 5.7+ pitch, or taken to the top through easier terrain. Makes a good warm up and dries off very quickly after rain.

P1: Climb up to the right of a small triangle roof, past a horisontal crack, and trend up and right to a bolted anchor.

P2: Climb up and belay at the start of a left facing dihedral.

P3: Up and left until you're on a large ledge system.

P4: Option 1- Climb up and left through runout slab, past a bolt and into a right facing dihedral. Option 2- Go right into a left facing dihedral and follow it up.

The last half pitch is 4th class but a fall would be bad.

Location

There are several slab climbs at the far right end of Little Baldy. This route starts on the left side of this area and climbs just to the right of a small triangular roof.

Protection

5 or 6 draws and a .5" piece if only doing the first pitch, more small to medium gear if heading all the way up. One 60m rope is good unless you rap off the 150' first pitch.

Photos

This route is named because of me! My first handrilling experience. I drilled the 2nd bolt on this route and as you can guess I broke a bit. It's been so long I can't remember the details. I think I finished the hole and placed the bolt. Don't remember if it was 1/4" or 3/8". We started this route after work and didn't get to far. I think Tim and Dale finished it on a day I had to work. Tim and Dale were both great guys and climbing partners. I have great memories, although foggy, climbing with them. Dale was the nicest guy ever. He lived a very active and simple life and loved the outdoors. Taken from us way to early. Feb 5, 2015