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Holts Ledge Climbing
Routes in Holts Ledge
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Battle of the bulge, aka:Jaws WI3 |
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Committed WI3+ |
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Crown Royal T WI4 M4 |
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Green Chasm WI4-5 |
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Its Curtains WI4 |
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Left to Trees Slab WI3+ |
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Scottish Gully WI3+ |
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Spiral Staircase, The WI4+ |
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| Elevation: | 1,728 ft | 527 m |
| GPS: |
43.77852, -72.10309 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 16,861 total · 115/month | |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Nov 20, 2012 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Dartmouth Skiway D.O.C. parking lot for non skiers mandatory parking to know your at the ledges
Details
In April, 2017, a large access problem arose at Holts Ledge when the town of Lyme Selectboard voted to remove all of the climbing bolts that had been placed at Holt’s Ledge and close it to climbing. Climbers objected and the Selectboard’s previous decision was put to a town vote.
In October 2017, town residents overwhelmingly voted to remove all of the bolts that had been placed on the cliff. In 2018, despite an outcry from the local climbing community, many of those bolts were cut, damaged or removed.
In 2018, climbers were able to show that Dartmouth College actually owns the cliff, not the town of Lyme. In October 2018, the town of Lyme rescinded its 2017 rule barring climbing and closing access to the cliff.
Dartmouth College currently has this to say about the ledge:
outdoors.dartmouth.edu/acti…
Holts ledge is being ice climbed without issues. What has changed radically is the approach. Presently access is only by going up from the Dartmouth Skiway D.O.C. parking lot for non skiers. This is mandatory parking to know your at the ledges. Access is by the Green Pastures ski trail at the far southeast end of the ski area - follow the green signs. I didn't know of this trail or I would have notified MP of this place long ago. Access became a issue in the late 1980's when there was private land development. Anyway are enough of us to find out anymore details from the D.O.C. about climbing there.
In October 2017, town residents overwhelmingly voted to remove all of the bolts that had been placed on the cliff. In 2018, despite an outcry from the local climbing community, many of those bolts were cut, damaged or removed.
In 2018, climbers were able to show that Dartmouth College actually owns the cliff, not the town of Lyme. In October 2018, the town of Lyme rescinded its 2017 rule barring climbing and closing access to the cliff.
Dartmouth College currently has this to say about the ledge:
outdoors.dartmouth.edu/acti…
Holts ledge is being ice climbed without issues. What has changed radically is the approach. Presently access is only by going up from the Dartmouth Skiway D.O.C. parking lot for non skiers. This is mandatory parking to know your at the ledges. Access is by the Green Pastures ski trail at the far southeast end of the ski area - follow the green signs. I didn't know of this trail or I would have notified MP of this place long ago. Access became a issue in the late 1980's when there was private land development. Anyway are enough of us to find out anymore details from the D.O.C. about climbing there.
Description
Here is a big surprise, I am introducing this area in 2012 to MP. The ledge has had ice climbers here since the 1980's or earlier. Its mostly excellent water ice and retreat is always easy after climbing. Its wide open at the cliff line so walking is easy from climb to climb.
The ledge has some unusual direction to it because the climbs are on the northeast side or right side facing the ledge. The central and left side of the ledge is a much higher cliff. The winter sun directs its sunlight here most of the day. Nice place to go to get a lot of climbs in during a short winter's day. That is because the climbs are lined up like dominoes. All of the routes can be rappelled by trees. There is a walk off north or right back down to where you came to the bottom.
The first iced slab you'll see on the approach is a long iced over steep start to it slab. Its always fat WI3-4 ice at its bottom half. The top half gets aerated or too dry sometimes. Several years the WI4 curtain at the slab base became detached. Don't know it until your on top of it. Anyway there is little to no risk with the curtain and most routes here.
Snow melt is a big factor to consider about this area. It is semi dependent on it for the routes furthest left. From the middle ice flow of Jaws (below the large ceiling) and the gullies right are ground fed and not affected so much by drought winters. All of these climbs come in every year eventually. The heights of routes are approximate and might be much longer than I remember.
The routes I know are from the one's I climbed. I climbed the place out over several years except for one possible route on the higher ledge. I got to where I no rope soloed the routes. I invited Ted Hammond to no rope solo with me. We knocked most of them off on a single day together in winter 86-87.
Its like an outdoors ice climbing gym in snowy winters.
The DOC has top roped here for years and probably led the routes. This place has remained, too this day not listed in any guide books. I saw the ice potential trying to do a rock route here in 1982. Winter 83-84 I did Spiral Staircase as my first roped in lead. I quit going here in 1987. The access became private land developed, where I used too park.
The ledge has some unusual direction to it because the climbs are on the northeast side or right side facing the ledge. The central and left side of the ledge is a much higher cliff. The winter sun directs its sunlight here most of the day. Nice place to go to get a lot of climbs in during a short winter's day. That is because the climbs are lined up like dominoes. All of the routes can be rappelled by trees. There is a walk off north or right back down to where you came to the bottom.
The first iced slab you'll see on the approach is a long iced over steep start to it slab. Its always fat WI3-4 ice at its bottom half. The top half gets aerated or too dry sometimes. Several years the WI4 curtain at the slab base became detached. Don't know it until your on top of it. Anyway there is little to no risk with the curtain and most routes here.
Snow melt is a big factor to consider about this area. It is semi dependent on it for the routes furthest left. From the middle ice flow of Jaws (below the large ceiling) and the gullies right are ground fed and not affected so much by drought winters. All of these climbs come in every year eventually. The heights of routes are approximate and might be much longer than I remember.
The routes I know are from the one's I climbed. I climbed the place out over several years except for one possible route on the higher ledge. I got to where I no rope soloed the routes. I invited Ted Hammond to no rope solo with me. We knocked most of them off on a single day together in winter 86-87.
Its like an outdoors ice climbing gym in snowy winters.
The DOC has top roped here for years and probably led the routes. This place has remained, too this day not listed in any guide books. I saw the ice potential trying to do a rock route here in 1982. Winter 83-84 I did Spiral Staircase as my first roped in lead. I quit going here in 1987. The access became private land developed, where I used too park.
Getting There
At the town of Lyme turn onto Dorchester Road to Dartmouth Skiway and bear right at the fork where it becomes Grafton Turnpike Road; signs indicate parking for hikers and climbers in designated areas of the parking lot on your left. Walk east on the road in front of the Skiway lodge, then follow signs up the left side (skier's right) of Green Pastures ski trail, then into the woods to reach the ledges.
Directions found on the Dartmouth Outdoors website (as of 2/28/2019):
How To Get There:
Take Route 10 north from Hanover into Lyme. Coming around the green in Lyme, bear right at the white church and follow signs for the Dartmouth Skiway. After passing through Lyme Center 1.8 miles from the Lyme green, the road winds around for another 1.3 miles before reaching a fork in the road . Turn right and continue to park in the Dartmouth Skiway’s lot (during winter an area may be established for non-skiers to park in order to make it easier for the staff there to see if anyone is still on the mountain). Walk east on the road in front of the Skiway lodge, then follow signs up the left side of Green Pastures ski trail until ledges can be reached on the left.
Directions found on the Dartmouth Outdoors website (as of 2/28/2019):
How To Get There:
Take Route 10 north from Hanover into Lyme. Coming around the green in Lyme, bear right at the white church and follow signs for the Dartmouth Skiway. After passing through Lyme Center 1.8 miles from the Lyme green, the road winds around for another 1.3 miles before reaching a fork in the road . Turn right and continue to park in the Dartmouth Skiway’s lot (during winter an area may be established for non-skiers to park in order to make it easier for the staff there to see if anyone is still on the mountain). Walk east on the road in front of the Skiway lodge, then follow signs up the left side of Green Pastures ski trail until ledges can be reached on the left.
Classic Climbing Routes at Holts Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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