Battleship Back Cliff Rock Climbing
|GPS:||50.535, -2.454 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||260 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Russell on Oct 19, 2012|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell|
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DescriptionAn impressive cliff, up to 25m in height, behind the leaning block that gives the area its name. The routes here tend to be long, pumpy affairs, and some are very good indeed.
In common with other nearby areas, the rock in the lower section is banded with chert, a hard black silicious rock. These lumps tend to provide positive holds, but are sharp and slippery. The limestone can also take on the unfortunate 'soapy' feel if at all damp, but is less susceptible to this problem than some of the more marine crags in the area.
Landslip early 2014 Details
The approach from the North end of the crag (described in all current guidebooks) suffered from a landslip in early 2014. An alternative approach from the South is described in the area page.
Getting ThereOnce on Portland drive through Fortune's Well then Weston. Just after exiting Weston take the second exit from the roundabout onto Reap Lane. Park on here with consideration to the local residents (pick a wide part of the road, not in front of any driveways, etc.).
Continue walking down Reap Lane and take a footpath on the right, just after a row of houses. This takes you to the coast path. Turn left (South) onto this for about 50m until a steep path (with a fixed rope a little lower down) leads down towards the sea. Follow this path above The Veranda towards the block. Battleship Main is just beyond the block and the Back Cliff.
Note that the former approach (from the North) was affected by a landslip in early 2014 and no longer exists. The information in any guidebook published before this date will be wrong.
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