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Lower New River Gorge Bouldering Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Lower New River Gorge Bouldering

Casey Jones 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Cotton Bottom 0 / 0 / 0 / 49 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 49

Cotton Top 0 / 0 / 0 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30

Hawk's Nest Proper 0 / 0 / 0 / 42 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 42

Lower Hawk's Nest 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

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Elevation:	775 ft	236 m
GPS:	38.11839, -81.132 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	128,360 total · 736/month
Shared By:	cstorms on Sep 13, 2011
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

In addition to the Cotton Top Crags, the lower New River Gorge below Hawk's Nest Dam has tons of amazing bouldering. The Hawk's Nest boulders are clustered around the dam itself, while farther downstream you get to Cotton Top, Cotton Bottom, and into the Dries. Be aware that river levels can change very quickly when climbing down at water level.

Getting There

Take the Mountaineer expressway (US-19) towards Fayetteville. At Fayetteville, take state road 16 North, following signs towards Hawk's Nest Dam for 7/8 miles. Once you cross a large bridge, there is a parking area on the right. Hike .7 miles following signs for Hawk's Nest Dam.

149 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower New River Gorge Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V2 5+ 87 ● Puckerface Boulder Hawk's Nest Proper > Leaving Las Fayettevi…
V2 5+ 25 ● Perfect World Boulder Casey Jones > Gundercling Boulder
V4 6B 52 ● Mines of Moria Boulder Cotton Bottom > Malone Boulder
V4 6B 50 ● Gundercling Boulder Casey Jones > Gundercling Boulder
V4-5 6B+ 65 ● Slitty Titty Traverse Boulder Cotton Bottom > Slitty Titty Boulder
V5- 6C 37 ● Elephant in the Room Boulder Lower Hawk's Nest > Elephant in the Room…
V5 6C 87 ● Leaving Las Fayetteville Boulder Hawk's Nest Proper > Leaving Las Fayettevi…
V5 6C 10 ● Johnny Chimpo Boulder Cotton Top > Cave
V6- 7A 88 ● Slopers Malone Boulder Cotton Bottom > Malone Boulder
V6 7A 10 ● Half Moon Tilt Stand Boulder Cotton Top > Man On The Moon Boulder
V6 7A 11 ● Ferrous Geode Boulder Cotton Top > Taper Point Boulder
V7 7A+ 9 ● White Eyebrow Boulder Hawk's Nest Proper > White Eyebrow Boulder
V8 7B 13 ● Bat Cave Traverse Boulder Cotton Bottom > Bat Cave Boulder
V8+ 7B+ 7 ● Half Moon Tilt Boulder Cotton Top > Man On The Moon Boulder
V11 8A 4 ● Mega Mite Boulder Cotton Bottom > Bat Cave Boulder