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Areas in Rocher de Freÿr

Al'Legne 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2
Jeunesse 0 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Les Cinq Ânes 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Tête du Lion 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 400 ft
GPS: 50.22, 4.895 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,686 total · 38/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Feb 11, 2010
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Description

Rocher de Freÿr is perhaps the most important climbing area in Belgium. Known as a destination climbing area since the 1920's, there's over 600 routes, 1000 pitches, on various buttresses, towers and faces on beautiful limestone overlooking the Meuse River.

With grades from easy to very very hard, there's a bit of something for all folks.

14 different formations, some reaching right down into the river, provide plenty of variety and terrain for climbing, all set in a lush forest. Steep cliffs up to 400 feet high provide for great position, nice views, and plenty of exposure.

Trails all start from the top of the plateau, hiking down to the base of the crags with short to very short approaches from the parking area. Some of the routes top out very near the road making climbing with all your kit a nice option at the end of a day.

Popular classic routes tend to be very polished. Protection is typically bolts, but, some folks find a small rack of nuts and cams useful for some of the runouts between the slick/slippery stances.

Campsite available run by the Belgian Alpine Club. There is also a fine hut, the CAB Refuge Duschesne, available for a stay. Both locations are very inexpensive (especially comparted to nearby hotels!).

Please use the toilet at the hut as there are no facilities at the crags. The hut also has hot showers and running water.
Area is private and managed by the Belgian Alpine Club Details

Getting There

Travelling on the A4/E411, get off on the N97 and travel west towards Dinant/Anseremme. Take the N94 exit, either towards Dinant or Dréhance (faster as the road past Dréhance goes to Anseremme, avoiding a bit of traffic in Dinant).

From Dinant, take the N95 to Anseremme. Keep driving on N95 and as the road bends around to the south, it'll start up a hill. Go past Anseremme around 2 km cresting at the Plateau de Freÿr. Look for "Le Chamonix" Cafe on the left (east) and then immediately on the right (west) a parking lot. This is the main parking lot for climbing.

Once past the main parking lot, the road continues south and descends off the plateau towards Falmignoul (and towards the bigger town of Beauraing).

For a fine view of the rock, find the N96 across the Meuse River from the main bridge in Dinant (near the train station), drive south past the Château de Freÿr and look to the left (east). Several pullouts available for parking a car.

Also note if travelling by train, there is a stop in Anseremme, which would be a fairly short hike to the camping area.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rocher de Freÿr

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
L'Hypothénuse
Sport, Aid 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
L'Hypothénuse Al'Legne
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0 Sport, Aid 5 pitches
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This is a beautiful area with a high density of technical climbs (lots of 5.10 and higher) and a some lower grades. The rock on the classic routes is very polished and almost glassy. Honestly, we started avoiding the classic climbs because they were so slick and texture-less. The non-classic routes are still smooth, but the rock at least has some texture. The limestone has excellent finger pockets and is nice to climb on once you get past the smoothness of the rock.

The bolt spacing on some of the walls can be pretty far, so it may be worth bring up some nuts (the rock doesn't take cams well since it's so smooth) just in case. Also, you probably won't be able to rap down from a multi-pitch route without leaving gear if it doesn't have top rope chains set up. You can walk off the top of the climbs without too much trouble (and the view is amazing).

You can pick up a copy of the Freyr guidebook at the frites shop across the road from the Alpine Club Hut for around 30 euro. It's worth having. Old references on other sites to the Cafe Chamonix should be ignored, since it burned down in May 2013. You can stay in the alpine hut for 4 euro a night, or pitch a tent for 2 euro. Someone will come around in the morning to collect and will happily provide you with beta. Nov 24, 2014
personally, coming from the trap-rock and gneiss crags i climbed at in america, it was a bit unnerving to climb here. The rock is so incredibly slippery on all of the easier routes (escpecially the classics) that I was having lots of trouble even warming up on a 3c, let alone climbing at my top grade.
Still, an extensive well maintained crag, a beautiful area, and a hell of a lot of routes. I guess ill just have to get used to it :) Nov 18, 2010

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