Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Al'Legne

L'Hypothénuse S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
l' Arete Jongen S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, Aid, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 890 total, 12/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 9, 2012
Admins:

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the classic multi pitch routes at Freyr, L'Hypothénuse ascends the middle of the south face of Al’Legne in 5 popular pitches.

Locate the big chimney in the left facing corner, and, climb up to a ledge at about the 70 foot level. Follow the ramp out left and up to the next belay station around 50 feet away. These pitches could probably be combined. 5.4/5.6.

The "interesting" pitch. Traverse across to the left and note a cord attached to a fixed point above on the blank looking terrain ahead. Use this as a pendulum point and swing further left to holds, climb up to a bolted belay ledge. Most folks A0, but, supposedly free climbable at around 5.10b-ish. Mostly 5.7.

Traverse left on grassy, shallow terraces, climb up a shallow chimney/groove, then left up the lower angle face to a neat, exposed belay niche. 5.6.

Climb left over into the shade of the north face. Up the north side of the arête past a steep spot to a notch at the crest of the cliff. 5.6.

-From the notch, a fun, exposed alternate finish is to climb just up and right on thin holds on the last pitch of La Serenade. 5.10a.

Scramble the easy ridge to the summit. Neat views, and, exposed.

Location

Locate the big left facing corner/chimney near the center (or left of center) of the big south face of Al’Legne. The routes L’Al Legne, and La Direttissima also share the first pitch.

The staging area is well trodden and there’s a fairly well worn trail leading to the start of the route.

Protection

A small set of nuts/cams would take the sting out of any runout, but, most folks get by with a set of quickdraws and a few slings.

Pitches protected with bolts, and, belays have a set of fixed anchors.

0 Comments