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Routes in Tête du Lion

La Tête du Lion S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0
Elevation: 400 ft
GPS: 50.224, 4.893 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 330 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Dec 19, 2011
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Description


This sleepy lion appears to be lounging at the water’s edge seemingly belying this crag’s reputation for serious, hard, polished and thin routes.

Tête du Lion, the Lion’s head, is a shorter crag packed with 45 to 50 routes, mostly on the steep Meuse Face, which is perched right above the river.

Some of the base of the southerly exposed Meuse Face can be under a foot or two of water but at times the concrete path will be dry.

Grades vary from 3+ to 8a with most routes falling in the 6a to 7a range. Some multi pitch action, from short three pitches to double pitch routes. The top of the crag is around 160 feet or so above the water.

Popular venues here include the original route, up the narrow edge of the west side, La Tête du Lion (3 pitches to 5c with a bit of tuggin’ perhaps), La Sirene (6c+), Cocaine Fingers (7a+), La R2 (6b), God Shave the Queen (8a), Heroïne (7a+),the polished La Grunne (4c), etc.

Options for getting down are rappelling the route, or, a traverse on the spine of the top can be carefully down climbed to the north (tricky to figure out the easiest line from above, and, can be slippery so take care!) or rappelled from a number of fixed anchors back to the south or north with single 60m rope options available.

Getting There

A short, 15 minute walk down to the base of the cliff.

Across the N95 from the Chamonix Café, take either of the trails to the north.

Sentier Christiane descends just to the south of Al’Legne for the approach to the concrete trail on the south side of the Lion under the Meuse Face. If this trail is under water, an alternate approach to the northern side of the Lion is further up the road: Sentier des Pêcheurs. This “fishermans’ trail” leads down between Les Cinq Ânes to the north and La Tête du Lion to the south. At the bottom near the river, take the trail to the left to reach the north side of the Lion.

Another approach would be from the car park near the CAB refuge just south of the Chamonix Café. Hike the trail past the refuge which winds down to follow the river to the north past Al’Legne.

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