Routes in The Leaning Wall
|A Brief Squall T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Columbus Day in America T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Golden Plate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Leaning Corner, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Leaning Crack, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher), The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Leaning Flake, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Leaning Seam, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Orange Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slabby Steps T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|GPS:||38.88, -106.147 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||9,749 total, 97/month|
|Shared By:||Drew Spaulding on Sep 4, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
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Description"The Leaning Wall" has a good mix of moderate and difficult routes. The left side of the wall has 5 moderate routes 5.7-5.9. The right side has 5 routes from 5.10c-5.12a. Most routes require some gear placements as well as bolts for protection. Rock quality is typical gritty BV granite, but the routes are cleaning up over time.... Great afternoon sun makes year round climbing possible. (This crag is labeled "Milt's Wall" in the Arkansas Valley climbing guidebook, but "Milt's Wall" actually sits just south and above the 1st set of tunnels.) Routes are described from left to right....
(1) The Orange Corner - 5.7, gear to chains.
(2) A Brief Squall - 5.7+, gear and bolts to chains.
(3) Golden Plate - 5.9 ,(5.10a 1 bolt start optional) gear and bolts to chains - left of the "Slab Tree".
(4) Classic Corner - 5.7, climb gear to the right of the "Slab Tree" up the steep corner.
(5) Slabby Steps - 5.8, just left of the "Leaning Seam"... scramble up to a bolted bulge and up to the thin lieback crack. Finish on the bolted slab above.
(6) The Leaning Seam - 5.10d, thin gear to 1 bolt and then up to chains.
(7) The Leaning Face (AKA-Backscratcher) - 5.12a, 6 bolts and gear to chains.
(8) The Leaning Corner - 5.11b, gear and 1 bolt crux to chains.
(9) The Leaning Flake - 5.10c, gear and 3 bolts to chains.
(10) The Leaning Crack - 5.10d/11a, gear to chains.
Getting ThereThe Leaning Wall is found by driving north on the "River Road" (Co. Rd. 371) from the town of BV. After passing through the first set of tunnels, drive 1/4 mile, just past the "Chief's Head" and park on the right before entering the 3rd tunnel. A large pine tree grows from the foot of the steep, leaning wall. 5 minutes up the moderate slope to the base.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Leaning Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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