The Leaning Crack
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in The Leaning Wall
|A Brief Squall T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Columbus Day in America T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Golden Plate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Leaning Corner, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Leaning Crack, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher), The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Leaning Flake, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Leaning Seam, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Orange Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slabby Steps T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft|
|FA:||Drew Spaulding, 2002|
|Page Views:||459 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Drew Spaulding on Jun 20, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Leaning Crack is one of the best crack climbs in BV!
Start up the slab on the far right to gain the overhanging crack above. Tough, pumpy moves (10d) lead up into the quality hand crack corner (10a). This seems too classic of a line to not have been climbed in the past and I wouldn't doubt if it has.... But after cleaning obvious loose blocks and flakes from the crack, I've wondered....
Solid 5.11 if you are trying to jam the steep crack straight in... the are some gracious holds up to the right of the crack that make it more doable!