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Routes in The Leaning Wall

A Brief Squall T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Columbus Day in America T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Plate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaning Corner, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leaning Crack, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher), The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leaning Flake, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaning Seam, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Orange Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabby Steps T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Drew Spaulding, 2002
Page Views: 459 total, 5/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Jun 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Leaning Crack is one of the best crack climbs in BV!

Start up the slab on the far right to gain the overhanging crack above. Tough, pumpy moves (10d) lead up into the quality hand crack corner (10a). This seems too classic of a line to not have been climbed in the past and I wouldn't doubt if it has.... But after cleaning obvious loose blocks and flakes from the crack, I've wondered....
Solid 5.11 if you are trying to jam the steep crack straight in... the are some gracious holds up to the right of the crack that make it more doable!

Protection

Thin gear to 3". Chained anchors over the top.

Photos

Ben Sebald
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Ben Sebald   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
The first overhanging crack packs a punch with three well-protected, really hard moves. Good rest stance after pulling the lip (you'll need it) followed by the 5.10a crack. The bulge at the top was a nice 5.8 pull. Awesome route! All I found of the "some holds out right" was one positive crimp that definitely helped. Oct 28, 2017