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Routes in The Leaning Wall

A Brief Squall T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Columbus Day in America T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Golden Plate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaning Corner, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leaning Crack, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher), The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leaning Flake, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leaning Seam, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Orange Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabby Steps T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 276 total, 22/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Dec 10, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Ever notice how some climbers act as if they've discovered America when they do first ascents? Or think that they are doing first ascents, because they found some lichens on the rocks?

This route may be an example of that. I think that, on Oct. 12, 2015, my wife and I did the first ascent of this pile, 523 years to the day after Columbus "discovered" America. Of course, we know that people had already been living in the Americas for more than 20,000 years, so what's the big deal?

Here's the big deal: Drew Spaulding didn't claim this route; therefore it must be virgin. How could he have not noticed it? It is so memorable, I forgot about it for over a year, before posting it today.

Location

Up and left of the start of the Orange Corner, please find the next obvious crack system. This crack system is obvious on the left side of Leaning Wall, as seen in the beta photo on the LW page.

Protection

SR. At the top, I built an anchor from gear. After my wife cleaned the pitch, I lowered her. I rapped from the anchors atop Orange Corner, which we had previously climbed.

Photos

Hi Drew —

I'm not upset. I'm just poking fun at you. I'm also satirizing the mindset that many have displayed over the decades, when claiming first ascents.

You have a keen eye for finding previously unclimbed rock. For example, you established almost all of the routes on this rock.

However, I can think of one route that might have SEEMED like unclimbed rock. You claimed an FA on a route on the Fourth Elephant Buttress in Bocan. I commented that it is an old route that had been published in guidebooks and that even I had done before. You replied that it is, in so many words, a new variation — which may be true. No big deal.

I've enjoyed climbing many routes that you've established — on this rock, at the Weston Wall, and at Upper Dream Canyon. Keep up the good work! Mar 4, 2017
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
Are you saying you are upset with me, George? Mar 3, 2017