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Mourning Glory Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Mourning Glory

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Nice Change of Scenery S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Baby Steps S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Casual Encounters S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Don't Trad on Me S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Exposé S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Glory Hole S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Gotta Go S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Hem and Haw S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mourning Glory S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
	Mourning Glory \| 1297 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Off the Rails S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Orange Monster, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pandora's Blue Sharpie S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Sweet Tides S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Turtle Head, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,200 ft	2,195 m
GPS:	39.74519, -105.40409 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	16,987 total · 83/month
Shared By:	Darren Mabe on Jun 16, 2009
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!

Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31

Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…

Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 1 (MM 270, W of Tunnel 1). Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

CCC Raptor Nesting Closure 2 (E of Tunnel 2). In 2016, the closure WAS lifted June 9 for ONLY the 2016 season, per Eric Krause, JeffCo OS Ranger. Photo reconfiguration: Ron Keller.

The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.

Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:

Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves

Description

This new little area sits high up on a west-facing hill side that you get a glimpse of just as you drive out of Tunnel 5 (coming towards Golden).

The crag features the namesake testpiece massive roof route,Mourning Glory, that was freed by Daniel Woods in March of 2012. There may be potential for several new routes depending on your imagination, as there are currently only two.

The hillside below the base of the routes is steep and loose. Be careful up there.

Getting There

This crag sits at the top of the canyon, on the north side of tunnel 5. Turn left at the stop light of the Y -junction. Park on the other side of the road, 0.2 miles, at the bridge pull-off underneath the street lamp.

Walk upstream for about 5 minutes along a trail. If you get to some short bolted routes, you went too far (this is the Fiscal Cliff). Switch back up the hill on somewhat of a trail (cairned). This takes you to the base of Sweet Tides. See the photo.

The approach takes me about 10-16 minutes.

L->R:

A1. Gotta Go, 10+, 1p, 65', bolts.

A2. The Turtle Head, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

B. Baby Steps, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.

C. Casual Encounters, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.

D. Off the Rails, 10, 1p, 65', bolts.

E. Colorado Casual, 1p, bolts.

F. Sweet Tides, 11, 1p, 82', bolts.

G. Don't Trad on Me, 9, 1p, bolts.

H. Glory Hole, 13+, 1p, 60', bolts.

I. Mourning Glory, 14c/d, 1p, 80', bolts.

J. Exposé, 10, 105', bolts.

K. Hem and Haw, 10, 105', bolts.

L. Trail of Tears, 10- PG-13, 1p, 80', bolts.

M1. The Orange Monster, 12, 1p, 85', bolts.

M2. Pandora's Blue Sharpie, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts.

N. A Nice Change of Scenery, 9+, 1p, 90', bolts.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mourning Glory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 9 ● Don't Trad on Me Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 4 ● Gotta Go Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 4 ● Casual Encounters Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 8 ● Sweet Tides Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 11 ● Pandora's Blue Sharpie Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 22 ● The Orange Monster Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a 5 ● Glory Hole Sport
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b 4 ● Mourning Glory Sport