The Northeast Point Rock Climbing
Routes in The Northeast Point
|Blackbeard's Revenge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Chicken of the Sea S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Devil Wears Flippers, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Holy Huecos Bat Wo-Man S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|No Problem Mon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Porcupine Named Fluffy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Porpoise Christi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Renegade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Shiver Me Timbers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Spermy the Whale S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Throwin' the Tortuga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Walkin' The Plank S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|What's The Point? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|GPS:||19.752, -79.723 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Anthony Stout on Jun 12, 2009|
Getting weather forecast...
DescriptionThe Point is truly one of the wildest, most beautiful, and most exciting places I have ever had the opportunity to climb at. The heavy seas we experienced pounded the cliffs below with thunderous explosions, throwing sea spray from the undercut rock. At one point a giant rolling wave drenched my feet, creating a mildly unsettling situation.
The guidebook noted that some are lucky enough to see turtles and other large sea life below you as you climb; we were not that lucky. Though we did see nesting and their fuzzy white chicks, as well as soaring , also known as Men O' War. Please be considerate of these creatures, as the Brown Boobie is a protected and rare species.
The Northeast Point contains the highest concentration of routes on the Island, with grades ranging from 5.9 to 5.12. The routes get shade all day in February, while the top of the routes get sun by mid March.
As this is not your typical crag environment, extra precautions and logistics must be considered when climbing here to avoid any serious situations. Rescue on the island is non-existent unless there are other climbers around. There are specific procedures for climbing at the point recommended by John Byrnes, which worked quite well for us. As this information is freely available, I will not repeat it but refer you to his guide. We found a gri-gri to work very well for the single rope rappels. In the few situations where we found the intended belay stance was wet due to the raging seas, we set the belay above, using two bolts on the climb. The static rope you rappel to the climbs on can be helpful in setting up a belay in this manner.
Getting ThereFrom Asthton Reid (aka Crossover Road), head east on the Major Donald Drive (aka Lighthouse Road). Follow this road about 6 miles (10 km) until it ends at the lighthouse. Follow the nature trail that heads toward the water and to the left for about 100m to where there is a cairn on the right side of the trail. From this cairn you can look straight out to the edge and see some bushes and palm trees, to the right of which is the route The Devil Wears Flippers.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season