Type: Sport
FA: Jeff "Mort" Elison
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Jan 30, 2012
Admins: John Byrnes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This route gets my vote for the single best 5.11 pitch ever bolted. The climbing, the rock, the features, the setting are all spectacular. It deserves Rock and Ice #69 cover photo fame. Take the right line from the belay where you'll climb through what appears to be a section of stone made from hardened caramel with embedded sea creatures. Take your time here and see the sights, provided the slippery conditions allow. Then make your way up to the 'flying saucer' hold in the dihedral before you get out on the beautiful orange arete, where you should pause and appreciate everything about the space you currently occupy on the cliff. Continue up face and sort out the crux without the aid of chalk (you almost never see it on this wall) and finish in the standard sharp stone.

Location

about 60 ft. left of the very NE point (What's the Point?) when looking toward the water. The top anchor is just a couple feet left of the one for Freedom (which has a yellow tag) just below a diagonal crack. The bottom belay is shared with Freedom.

Protection

11 TITANIUM bolts with two more at the top and bottom belays.

Photos

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Dustin Stephens
  5.11b
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11b
Probably the best route at the point. Still not that great though, aside from the amazing position. Expect wet holds. Dec 25, 2013