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The Northeast Point

International > N America > Cayman Brac
Warning Access Issue: Bird closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The Point is truly one of the wildest, most beautiful, and most exciting places I have ever had the opportunity to climb at. The heavy seas we experienced pounded the cliffs below with thunderous explosions, throwing sea spray from the undercut rock. At one point a giant rolling wave drenched my feet, creating a mildly unsettling situation.

The guidebook noted that some are lucky enough to see turtles and other large sea life below you as you climb; we were not that lucky. Though we did see nesting
and their fuzzy white chicks, as well as soaring
, also known as Men O' War. Please be considerate of these creatures, as the Brown Boobie is a protected and rare species.

The Northeast Point contains the highest concentration of routes on the Island, with grades ranging from 5.9 to 5.12. The routes get shade all day in February, while the top of the routes get sun by mid March.

As this is not your typical crag environment, extra precautions and logistics must be considered when climbing here to avoid any serious situations. Rescue on the island is non-existent unless there are other climbers around. There are specific procedures for climbing at the point recommended by John Byrnes, which worked quite well for us. As this information is freely available, I will not repeat it but refer you to his guide. We found a gri-gri to work very well for the single rope rappels. In the few situations where we found the intended belay stance was wet due to the raging seas, we set the belay above, using two bolts on the climb. The static rope you rappel to the climbs on can be helpful in setting up a belay in this manner.

Getting There

From Asthton Reid (aka Crossover Road), head east on the Major Donald Drive (aka Lighthouse Road). Follow this road about 6 miles (10 km) until it ends at the lighthouse. Follow the nature trail that heads toward the water and to the left for about 100m to where there is a cairn on the right side of the trail. From this cairn you can look straight out to the edge and see some bushes and palm trees, to the right of which is the route “The Devil Wears Flippers”.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
I Got 99 Turtles Cause A Shark A…
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Point Break
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
What's The Point?
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Throwin' the Tortuga
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
Porcupine Named Fluffy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Renegade
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
The Devil Wears Flippers
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 1
Spermy the Whale
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Shiver Me Timbers
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Blackbeard's Revenge
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Walkin' The Plank
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
No Problem Mon
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Porpoise Christi
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Holy Huecos Bat Wo-Man
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Chicken of the Sea
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
Hot Tuna
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
I Got 99 Turtles Cause A Sh…
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Point Break
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
What's The Point?
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Throwin' the Tortuga
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Porcupine Named Fluffy
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Renegade
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Devil Wears Flippers
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Spermy the Whale
 1
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Shiver Me Timbers
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Blackbeard's Revenge
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Walkin' The Plank
 7
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
No Problem Mon
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Porpoise Christi
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Holy Huecos Bat Wo-Man
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chicken of the Sea
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Hot Tuna
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Craig Luebben rigging up for a photo shoot on the North Wall near Northeast Point (1995).
[Hide Photo] Craig Luebben rigging up for a photo shoot on the North Wall near Northeast Point (1995).
Climber partway up a route
[Hide Photo] Climber partway up a route
Tram partway up some route - not sure which (maybe "Walkin' the Plank"?)
[Hide Photo] Tram partway up some route - not sure which (maybe "Walkin' the Plank"?)
Chris rapping off "Walkin' the Plank". We liked to use a towel to protect our rope from the sharp rocks.
[Hide Photo] Chris rapping off "Walkin' the Plank". We liked to use a towel to protect our rope from the sharp rocks.
Relaxing in the garden of bleedin' in between routes. The plants aren't sharp but the rocks sure are!
[Hide Photo] Relaxing in the garden of bleedin' in between routes. The plants aren't sharp but the rocks sure are!
Belay anchor on Point Break (10b).  Photo by Jim Lawyer
[Hide Photo] Belay anchor on Point Break (10b). Photo by Jim Lawyer
View of the point from on top of the lighthouse...
[Hide Photo] View of the point from on top of the lighthouse...
View of the Atlantic from the point....
[Hide Photo] View of the Atlantic from the point....
This rock at the NE point wants to kill you and eat your rope.
[Hide Photo] This rock at the NE point wants to kill you and eat your rope.
Brown Boobie Birds and their fuzzy white chicks. This is a rare, protected species.
[Hide Photo] Brown Boobie Birds and their fuzzy white chicks. This is a rare, protected species.
Frigatebirds, also known as Men ’O War.
[Hide Photo] Frigatebirds, also known as Men ’O War.