Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Skip Harper
Page Views: 1,482 total · 9/month
Shared By: Skip Harper on May 26, 2010

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Description Suggest change

A well-featured recreational route starting from a large ledge about 60 feet below the Bluff edge (#1 on topo). Begin up and right over a cruxy bulge and follow a sharp, exposed arete. Step across the well-protected dihedral corner onto the main headwall where the grade eases to the top anchors. Despite some sharp rock encountered along the way, the extreme exposure, lofty position and variety of moves garner a higher star rating.

Location Suggest change

Find a cairn about 40 yards west of ‘Shiver Me Timbers’ on the right (n) side along the Lighthouse Footpath. Head north towards the Bluff edge taking the ’path of least resistance’ and you will find a large white colored, east facing dihedral. The top anchors are right over the edge at this point and easily accessible from an area of stable footing backed by a large bush.

Side note: This part of the North Wall (Northeast Point) has come to be known as the ’No Problem Mon Area’ after this namesake climb. It is the location of a cluster of four highly varied climbs within the immediate area. While No Problem Mon begins on a prominent ledge considerably above water level, the other three climbs (Porpoise Christi, Walkin' the Plank and Blackbeard's Revenge) are typical of ’sea cliff’ routes and have bottom anchors further down nearer the waterline (NOTE: take appropriate precautions accordingly). These climbs are all re-bolted with titanium Tortugas and are shown on the topo as if one were looking at the Bluff wall from the sea.

Protection Suggest change

2 top anchors, 9 bolts on the route, 2 bottom anchors (all titanium)