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Rough and Ready Hills Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 5,135 ft | 1,565 m |
| GPS: |
32.3954, -107.0372 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 74,858 total · 391/month | |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hobson on Mar 18, 2009 | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
The closest sport climbing area to Las Cruces is found on these inconspicuous volcanic hills about 45 minutes west of Las Cruces. Over 40 routes, mostly but not all sport, can be found here ranging from 5.7 to 5.12. The wall faces east, which makes it suitable for warm weather climbing as it gets shade for most the afternoon. Add to this the fact that it is sheltered from the predominately western winds and you have the makings of Las Cruces' most popular local crag.
The rock is a volcanic tuff and while brittle it provides many pockets as well as a wide variety of other holds. Bees have been less of a problem than in the past but are still around in the spring and early summer. They will be attracted to water if left out (say for a dog), but will otherwise leave you alone.
Coming in from the north, you will first encounter the (A) North End routes, then (B) Jungle Gym Area, (C) Reddi-Wip Area, the (D) Original Area, and finally (E) The Mothership (The Mothership is a separate wall, on the next level up from the main sport wall). The crag is under development, so there might be bolt lines other than those posted on Mountain Project, some finished, some not. In a few cases even finished routes which are fully bolted at the bottom may require trad gear higher up where the climbing moderates. Many of the more technical routes are set up for stick clipping the first, or in few cases the second, bolt.
The rock is a volcanic tuff and while brittle it provides many pockets as well as a wide variety of other holds. Bees have been less of a problem than in the past but are still around in the spring and early summer. They will be attracted to water if left out (say for a dog), but will otherwise leave you alone.
Coming in from the north, you will first encounter the (A) North End routes, then (B) Jungle Gym Area, (C) Reddi-Wip Area, the (D) Original Area, and finally (E) The Mothership (The Mothership is a separate wall, on the next level up from the main sport wall). The crag is under development, so there might be bolt lines other than those posted on Mountain Project, some finished, some not. In a few cases even finished routes which are fully bolted at the bottom may require trad gear higher up where the climbing moderates. Many of the more technical routes are set up for stick clipping the first, or in few cases the second, bolt.
Getting There
From Las Cruces, take I-10 west. Exit at the Las Cruces airport but immediately get onto the frontage road on the north side of the highway and follow it west until the entrance to Corallitos Ranch is found (County road 09). Follow this paved road for about 11.5 miles, passing the Corralitos ranch. You will pass by an old observatory at a gap in the hills. Just beyond this the road has a series of dips and two large gravel piles can be seen off to the right. Leave the paved road and get onto a dirt track heading to the gravel piles. The dirt track passes the gravel and later dead-ends at a small parking area which is on the west side of some low hills. Park here and follow a trail east towards a gap in the hills. Once you reach the saddle. the cliffs will be visible to your right (south). This is the north end of the Rough and Ready Hills. Allow 10-20 minutes for the approach hike.
Guidebook information
The 2006 edition of Rock Climbing New Mexico, by Dennis Jackson included a short description of this crag. Beta can also sometimes be found at the NMSU climbing wall.
Listing of Routes
Starting from North, as that is the end first encountered, only bolt lines listed (sport or mixed routes). The area is under development, so there are other lines. Sorry about that. If you know of some that need adding or other corrections, please contact me (Marta Reece).
North End Routes
Windy Gap Overlook a soft 5.9, mixed (trad gear needed)
Golden Brangus 5.10c, on the arete, shares anchors with the following two routes. Anchors can be reached by traversing from Don't Have a Cow
Under the Bull 5.9, goes to the right under the roof, then up
Dances with Brangi 5.10a, shares first bolt with Under the Bull, then goes up over the left end of the roof to the same chains
Don't Have a Cow 5.7, everyone's favorite warmup, with (unfortunately) a single chain anchor. The corner to the right is an easy top rope
Scott's Favorite Warm Up Climb 5.10a/b, a long route with an easy 1st half and overhanging crux 2nd half
Deer Leg 5.8, long enough a 60m rope will barely handle the rappel. Watch for loose rocks (especially if if you are somewhat off route)
Southern Fried 5.10d, some distance to the south from the rest with an overhanging finish
Jungle Gym Area
The Spire 5.10a/b, warning: this route is not bolted to the anchors. Bring trad gear.
(An unlisted line of bolts here)
Alchemy 5.11a, a two-pitch sport climb
Spider Monkey 5.11a
Unruly Macaque 5.11c, close to the following two routes
Well-disciplined Monkey 5.11 c/d, shares first three bolts with Unruly Macaque
Riding Rough on Helen Reddy 5.10d, shares anchors with Well-disciplined Monkey
Reddi-Wip Area
Blood, Sweat and Steers 5.9, slabby appearance, crux height dependent, close to following two routes, can be top roped using Try Trad
Excrement Adventure 5.12a PG-13, mixed, line may not be seen at first as it follows a crack and is done on gear low down
Brangus by the Horns 5.11b PG-13, to make a 5.10 route, you can start on Excrement Adventure and finish here
Reddi-Wip 5.10b, classic, harder without stemming off the opposite wall, height dependent, anchors can be reached via easy but dirty chimney
Fingerbang 5.10b, mixed (trad gear needed), shares anchors with Reddi-Wip
Rough Rider 5.11a
Original Area
Born Ready 5.10a, a short distance before the rest of the routes
The Paw 5.11, easy for a ways with a difficult finish, can be a 5.10 if done with gear in the crack to the left, top rope by traversing from First Move
PTSDed 5.12b, overhang in the middle of the nook, can be top roped by traversing from First Move
First Move 5.8, slick at the crux when too much chalk gets on it
Second Move 5.9+, on the arete, shares chains with First Move, best top roped
Halitosis Monkey 5.10 b/c, short, overhanging route, can be top roped by getting to the chains from First Move
Unnamed Arete 5.11d, classic which deserves to be named, sandbagged some with now fewer holds
The Mothership
Lost Alien 5.9, a fun face-to-corner route that can be trad-led or top-roped
Ode to Apollo 5.10d, a long, epic sport route with crux roof
The Big Bang 5.9, a fun corner/crack route that can be trad-led or top-roped
North End Routes
Windy Gap Overlook a soft 5.9, mixed (trad gear needed)
Golden Brangus 5.10c, on the arete, shares anchors with the following two routes. Anchors can be reached by traversing from Don't Have a Cow
Under the Bull 5.9, goes to the right under the roof, then up
Dances with Brangi 5.10a, shares first bolt with Under the Bull, then goes up over the left end of the roof to the same chains
Don't Have a Cow 5.7, everyone's favorite warmup, with (unfortunately) a single chain anchor. The corner to the right is an easy top rope
Scott's Favorite Warm Up Climb 5.10a/b, a long route with an easy 1st half and overhanging crux 2nd half
Deer Leg 5.8, long enough a 60m rope will barely handle the rappel. Watch for loose rocks (especially if if you are somewhat off route)
Southern Fried 5.10d, some distance to the south from the rest with an overhanging finish
Jungle Gym Area
The Spire 5.10a/b, warning: this route is not bolted to the anchors. Bring trad gear.
(An unlisted line of bolts here)
Alchemy 5.11a, a two-pitch sport climb
Spider Monkey 5.11a
Unruly Macaque 5.11c, close to the following two routes
Well-disciplined Monkey 5.11 c/d, shares first three bolts with Unruly Macaque
Riding Rough on Helen Reddy 5.10d, shares anchors with Well-disciplined Monkey
Reddi-Wip Area
Blood, Sweat and Steers 5.9, slabby appearance, crux height dependent, close to following two routes, can be top roped using Try Trad
Excrement Adventure 5.12a PG-13, mixed, line may not be seen at first as it follows a crack and is done on gear low down
Brangus by the Horns 5.11b PG-13, to make a 5.10 route, you can start on Excrement Adventure and finish here
Reddi-Wip 5.10b, classic, harder without stemming off the opposite wall, height dependent, anchors can be reached via easy but dirty chimney
Fingerbang 5.10b, mixed (trad gear needed), shares anchors with Reddi-Wip
Rough Rider 5.11a
Original Area
Born Ready 5.10a, a short distance before the rest of the routes
The Paw 5.11, easy for a ways with a difficult finish, can be a 5.10 if done with gear in the crack to the left, top rope by traversing from First Move
PTSDed 5.12b, overhang in the middle of the nook, can be top roped by traversing from First Move
First Move 5.8, slick at the crux when too much chalk gets on it
Second Move 5.9+, on the arete, shares chains with First Move, best top roped
Halitosis Monkey 5.10 b/c, short, overhanging route, can be top roped by getting to the chains from First Move
Unnamed Arete 5.11d, classic which deserves to be named, sandbagged some with now fewer holds
The Mothership
Lost Alien 5.9, a fun face-to-corner route that can be trad-led or top-roped
Ode to Apollo 5.10d, a long, epic sport route with crux roof
The Big Bang 5.9, a fun corner/crack route that can be trad-led or top-roped
Classic Climbing Routes at Rough and Ready Hills
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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