Rough and Ready Hills Rock Climbing
|GPS:||32.395, -107.037 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Aaron Hobson on Mar 18, 2009|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
The rock is a volcanic tuff and while brittle it provides many pockets as well as a wide variety of other holds. Bees have been less of a problem than in the past but are still around in the spring and early summer. They will be attracted to water if left out (say for a dog), but will otherwise leave you alone.
Coming in from the north, you will first encounter the (A) North End routes, then (B) Jungle Gym Area, (C) Reddi-Wip Area, the (D) Original Area, and finally (E) The Mothership (The Mothership is a separate wall, on the next level up from the main sport wall). The crag is under development, so there might be bolt lines other than those posted on Mountain Project, some finished, some not. In a few cases even finished routes which are fully bolted at the bottom may require trad gear higher up where the climbing moderates. Many of the more technical routes are set up for stick clipping the first, or in few cases the second, bolt.
Listing of Routes
North End Routes
Windy Gap Overlook a soft 5.9, mixed (trad gear needed)
Golden Brangus 5.10c, on the arete, shares anchors with the following two routes. Anchors can be reached by traversing from Don't Have a Cow
Under the Bull 5.9, goes to the right under the roof, then up
Dances with Brangi 5.10a, shares first bolt with Under the Bull, then goes up over the left end of the roof to the same chains
Don't Have a Cow 5.7, everyone's favorite warmup, with (unfortunately) a single chain anchor. The corner to the right is an easy top rope
Scott's Favorite Warm Up Climb 5.10a/b, a long route with an easy 1st half and overhanging crux 2nd half
Deer Leg 5.8, long enough a 60m rope will barely handle the rappel. Watch for loose rocks (especially if if you are somewhat off route)
Southern Fried 5.10d, some distance to the south from the rest with an overhanging finish
Jungle Gym Area
The Spire 5.10a/b, warning: this route is not bolted to the anchors. Bring trad gear.
(An unlisted line of bolts here)
Alchemy 5.11a, a two-pitch sport climb
Spider Monkey 5.11a
Unruly Macaque 5.11c, close to the following two routes
Well-disciplined Monkey 5.11 c/d, shares first three bolts with Unruly Macaque
Riding Rough on Helen Reddy 5.10d, shares anchors with Well-disciplined Monkey
Blood, Sweat and Steers 5.9, slabby appearance, crux height dependent, close to following two routes, can be top roped using Try Trad
Excrement Adventure 5.12a PG-13, mixed, line may not be seen at first as it follows a crack and is done on gear low down
Brangus by the Horns 5.11b PG-13, to make a 5.10 route, you can start on Excrement Adventure and finish here
Reddi-Wip 5.10b, classic, harder without stemming off the opposite wall, height dependent, anchors can be reached via easy but dirty chimney
Fingerbang 5.10b, mixed (trad gear needed), shares anchors with Reddi-Wip
Rough Rider 5.11a
Born Ready 5.10a, a short distance before the rest of the routes
The Paw 5.11, easy for a ways with a difficult finish, can be a 5.10 if done with gear in the crack to the left, top rope by traversing from First Move
PTSDed 5.12b, overhang in the middle of the nook, can be top roped by traversing from First Move
First Move 5.8, slick at the crux when too much chalk gets on it
Second Move 5.9+, on the arete, shares chains with First Move, best top roped
Halitosis Monkey 5.10 b/c, short, overhanging route, can be top roped by getting to the chains from First Move
Unnamed Arete 5.11d, classic which deserves to be named, sandbagged some with now fewer holds
Lost Alien 5.9, a fun face-to-corner route that can be trad-led or top-roped
Ode to Apollo 5.10d, a long, epic sport route with crux roof
The Big Bang 5.9, a fun corner/crack route that can be trad-led or top-roped
Classic Climbing Routes at Rough and Ready Hills
Days w Precip