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Areas in Rough and Ready Hills

(A) North End routes 4 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
(B) Jungle Gym Area 6 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
(C) Reddi-Wip Area 4 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
(D) Original Area 2 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
(E) The Mothership 2 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 5,135 ft
GPS: 32.395, -107.037 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,308 total · 266/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

The closest sport climbing area to Las Cruces is found on these inconspicuous volcanic hills about 45 minutes west of Las Cruces. Over 40 routes, mostly but not all sport, can be found here ranging from 5.7 to 5.12. The wall faces east, which makes it suitable for warm weather climbing as it gets shade for most the afternoon. Add to this the fact that it is sheltered from the predominately western winds and you have the makings of Las Cruces' most popular local crag.

The rock is a volcanic tuff and while brittle it provides many pockets as well as a wide variety of other holds. Bees have been less of a problem than in the past but are still around in the spring and early summer. They will be attracted to water if left out (say for a dog), but will otherwise leave you alone.

Coming in from the north, you will first encounter the (A) North End routes, then (B) Jungle Gym Area, (C) Reddi-Wip Area, the (D) Original Area, and finally (E) The Mothership (The Mothership is a separate wall, on the next level up from the main sport wall). The crag is under development, so there might be bolt lines other than those posted on Mountain Project, some finished, some not. In a few cases even finished routes which are fully bolted at the bottom may require trad gear higher up where the climbing moderates. Many of the more technical routes are set up for stick clipping the first, or in few cases the second, bolt.

Getting There

From Las Cruces, take I-10 west. Exit at the Las Cruces airport but immediately get onto the frontage road on the north side of the highway and follow it west until the entrance to Corallitos Ranch is found (County road 09). Follow this paved road for about 11.5 miles, passing the Corralitos ranch. You will pass by an old observatory at a gap in the hills. Just beyond this the road has a series of dips and two large gravel piles can be seen off to the right. Leave the paved road and get onto a dirt track heading to the gravel piles. The dirt track passes the gravel and later dead-ends at a small parking area which is on the west side of some low hills. Park here and follow a trail east towards a gap in the hills. Once you reach the saddle. the cliffs will be visible to your right (south). This is the north end of the Rough and Ready Hills. Allow 10-20 minutes for the approach hike.

Guidebook information

The 2006 edition of Rock Climbing New Mexico, by Dennis Jackson included a short description of this crag. Beta can also sometimes be found at the NMSU climbing wall.

Listing of Routes

Starting from North, as that is the end first encountered, only bolt lines listed (sport or mixed routes). The area is under development, so there are other lines. Sorry about that. If you know of some that need adding or other corrections, please contact me (Marta Reece).

North End Routes
Windy Gap Overlook a soft 5.9, mixed (trad gear needed)
Golden Brangus 5.10c, on the arete, shares anchors with the following two routes. Anchors can be reached by traversing from Don't Have a Cow
Under the Bull 5.9, goes to the right under the roof, then up
Dances with Brangi 5.10a, shares first bolt with Under the Bull, then goes up over the left end of the roof to the same chains
Don't Have a Cow 5.7, everyone's favorite warmup, with (unfortunately) a single chain anchor. The corner to the right is an easy top rope
Scott's Favorite 5.10a/b, a long route with an easy 1st half and overhanging crux 2nd half
Deer Leg 5.8, long enough a 60m rope will barely handle the rappel. Watch for loose rocks (especially if if you are somewhat off route)
Southern Fried 5.10d, some distance to the south from the rest with an overhanging finish

Jungle Gym Area
The Spire 5.10a/b, warning: this route is not bolted to the anchors. Bring trad gear.
(An unlisted line of bolts here)
Alchemy 5.11a, a two-pitch sport climb
Spider Monkey 5.11a
Unruly Macaque 5.11c, close to the following two routes
Well-disciplined Monkey 5.11 c/d, shares first three bolts with Unruly Macaque
Riding Rough on Helen Reddy 5.10d, shares anchors with Well-disciplined Monkey

Reddi-Wip Area
Blood, Sweat and Steers 5.9, slabby appearance, crux height dependent, close to following two routes, can be top roped using Try Trad
Excrement Adventure 5.12a PG-13, mixed, line may not be seen at first as it follows a crack and is done on gear low down
Brangus by the Horns 5.11b PG-13, to make a 5.10 route, you can start on Excrement Adventure and finish here
Reddi-Wip 5.10b, classic, harder without stemming off the opposite wall, height dependent, anchors can be reached via easy but dirty chimney
Fingerbang 5.10b, mixed (trad gear needed), shares anchors with Reddi-Wip
Rough Rider 5.11a

Original Area
Born Ready 5.10a, a short distance before the rest of the routes
The Paw 5.11, easy for a ways with a difficult finish, can be a 5.10 if done with gear in the crack to the left, top rope by traversing from First Move
PTSDed 5.12b, overhang in the middle of the nook, can be top roped by traversing from First Move
First Move 5.8, slick at the crux when too much chalk gets on it
Second Move 5.9+, on the arete, shares chains with First Move, best top roped
Halitosis Monkey 5.10 b/c, short, overhanging route, can be top roped by getting to the chains from First Move
Unnamed Arete 5.11d, classic which deserves to be named, sandbagged some with now fewer holds

The Mothership
Lost Alien 5.9, a fun face-to-corner route that can be trad-led or top-roped
Ode to Apollo 5.10d, a long, epic sport route with crux roof
The Big Bang 5.9, a fun corner/crack route that can be trad-led or top-roped

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rough and Ready Hills

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
First Move
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Deer Leg
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Under the Bull
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Blood, Sweat and Steers
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
Scott's Favorite
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
Reddi-Wip
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 35
Halitosis Monkey
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Ode to Apollo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
Rough Rider
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Spider Monkey
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Alchemy
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 25
The Paw
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Unruly Macaque
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Well-disciplined Monkey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Unnamed Arete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
First Move (D) Original Area
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Deer Leg (A) N End routes
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Under the Bull (A) N End routes
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Blood, Sweat and Steers (C) Reddi-Wip Area
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Scott's Favorite (A) N End routes
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Reddi-Wip (C) Reddi-Wip Area
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Halitosis Monkey (D) Original Area
 35
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ode to Apollo (E) The Mothership
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Rough Rider (C) Reddi-Wip Area
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Spider Monkey (B) Jungle Gym Area
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Alchemy (B) Jungle Gym Area
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
The Paw (D) Original Area
 25
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Unruly Macaque (B) Jungle Gym Area
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Well-disciplined Monkey (B) Jungle Gym Area
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Unnamed Arete (D) Original Area
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Photos

Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN
After living in Las Cruces for 3 years, I finally broke down and posted some route information for our local sport crag. I know this crag gets frequented by the NMSU crowd and I think I was waiting for someone else to introduce the area to MP.com. New routes are being added out here which aren't in any of the published guides and it would be great to get some of that information on this site. Mar 18, 2009
We're only in Las Cruces for a couple months, just got here three days ago. We just drove out to R&R yesterday for the first time. We hit up Soledad Canyon and the "Weeping Walls" out in front of the visitor's center at Dripping Springs... but R&R has been our favorite so far, even without any pro other than balance, boots and sunglasses.

We hiked up the main trail past the gravel pits and then bouldered around the base and behind/above most of the sport routes - some sweet options out there! We were looking for places to top rope from and didn't see any ideal situations. If anyone has some guidebook type advice on routes that you've tried and enjoyed, please post on here so we (and others in the area) can check them out. Thanks! Feb 4, 2012
Thanks to Scott Jones et. al. for a nice addition to Las Cruces climbing. Jan 22, 2014
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
Good write up but here are a few notes to supplement it.

If you don't have a high clearance vehicle, you may have problems reaching the final parking spot. We ended up parking about a quarter mile past the rock piles and walked the rest of the way. This adds only .25 to .5 miles to the approach or 10+/- additional minutes. Not sure on the land use rights for this area but we also camped right there as well in a clearing. It was already dark and there was nothing at all in sight, so we figured, why not.

Also, when we were there just a few days ago (late March), the bees at the North End crag were everywhere. It was particularly bad around the water we put out for the dog. If you can avoid open water containers, this may alleviate some of the bee problem. Luckily the bees were not aggressive so we were able to climb around them.

Finally, the rock quality here, despite it being the most trafficked sport crag in town, is still marginal, so a helmet for all those at the base is highly recommended. Apr 3, 2018
Drew Chojnowski
Las Cruces, NM
Drew Chojnowski   Las Cruces, NM  
Bees continue to be a significant problem; do not leave any water out, else you will have a swarm on your hands. Keep water bottles and coolers sealed at all possible times. May 28, 2018
Joe P  
Bees on Blood, Sweat and Steers. Left most lower big hueco on Blood, Sweat, and Steers is home to a bees nest. Be careful transiting through to other climbs. They were very active. Aug 13, 2018

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