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Routes in Original Area

Born Ready S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Move S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Halitosis Monkey S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PTSDed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Paw, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Second Move S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dave Lucas & Barak Shemai
Page Views: 1,876 total, 20/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Jan 26, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This is a spectacular, continuously overhanging pitch. It has no good rests and not one easy move. The rock is sharp and a bit crumbly in places, which is the only thing that keeps me from giving it 4 stars. It starts off with very steep, bouldery moves, then continues with less steep but more technical climbing up the arete. The climbing eases slightly once you reach the giant flake, but if you're like me, your arms are screaming by this point so things still feel quite hard. Lay-back for glory to the anchors!

Rock Climbing New Mexico gives the route a grade of "11d/12a," which is not an option on Mountain Project, so I just call it 11d.

Location

Currently the farthest left route at the Rough and Readies. Climbs the obvious arete with bouldery start, to an overhanging flake.

Protection

7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The first bolt is easy to clip, but a clip stick might be advisable for the second bolt.

Photos

Anthony McGlone
Las Cruces, NM
  5.12a PG13
Anthony McGlone   Las Cruces, NM
  5.12a PG13
Found new beta for the start, which was the crux for me. Lots of broken holds at the overhung beginning, feels like a V3 boulder problem, to me.

Broke a massive (1.5' x 2') foothold off at the start of the large flake at the top.

Use a stick clip or pads to protect the first few moves/bolts. Decking from the 2nd bolt is very possible. Dec 20, 2016
Jason Carlson
El Paso, TX
  5.12a
Jason Carlson   El Paso, TX
  5.12a
This feels harder than Abbey (5.12a) at the Tunnel but easier than Scott (also 5.12a) to me. May 28, 2015
Taylor J
new mexico, new england
  5.11d
Taylor J   new mexico, new england
  5.11d
I would have to disagree and say in no way is this route harder than 11d but it's still a great route. Jan 9, 2015
Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
  5.12a/b
Jorge Achata   Lima, Peru
  5.12a/b
A good sidepull is gone from the very beginning of the route; third move or so, depending on your beta. That might just add enough pump factor to make it lean more towards 5.12. A couple other holds feel like they won't stay there forever, but they are still solid for Rough and Readies type of rock. Jun 4, 2013