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Routes in Original Area

Born Ready S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Move S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Halitosis Monkey S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PTSDed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Paw, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Second Move S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mickey Hazelwood
Page Views: 1,072 total, 10/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A south facing face climb next to a crack-corner. The crack-corner can be led on gear. The bolted line stays on the face right of the crack and only uses the crack at the crux near the top. Not using the crack-corner for the crux involves a tricky sequence of crimps and pushes the grade up a notch.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. May be top-roped from either First Move or Born Ready.

Photos

Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
  5.11b
Jorge Achata   Lima, Peru
  5.11b
Heading left past the last bolt towards the roof crack is not bad, but a fall conjures some awesome swinging. Not that you can do much about it while falling, but watch for rope tangles. Heading straight up is definitely harder. I heard Scott Jones calling it "the hardest move in the mountain." It should be a clean fall if you can't make it though, so it's worth a try! Mar 10, 2013